distributor cap

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thejester
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distributor cap

Post by thejester »

well i have bought three new caps and they will not fire when i put the in my truck..I have the old one in there now which has a crack in it and it runs fine.Has anyone else had this problem..Am i m issing something here i'am all ears for some input

thank you in advance
Last edited by thejester on Mon Feb 22, 2010 9:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.
cuz
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Post by cuz »

The manufacturer makes a difference on dimensions.
Wes K
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54 M37, 66 M101, 45MB, 51 M38, 60 CJ5, 46 T3-C
MVPA 22099

Disclaimer: Any data posted is for general info only and may not be M37 specific or meet with the approval of some esteemed gurus.
thejester
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Post by thejester »

so what is the fix ? if they are different isn't there a standard they follow..they all look the same..The one in the truck is black and the ones i have that are new are red..I actually got a rebuild distributor and it had one of the red caps in it and would not work so i put the black one in and it fired right up?????
8543bob
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DIST CAP

Post by 8543bob »

SEEMS TO ME THAT THE ROTOR IS NOT MAKING CONTACT; EITHER FROM TO COIL WORE CONNECTION OR TO THE SPARK PLUG LEADS.
cuz
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Post by cuz »

I actually got a rebuild distributor and it had one of the red caps in it and would not work so i put the black one in and it fired right up?????
Looks like you answered your own question. Find a black cap. :wink:
Wes K
wsknettl@centurytel.net

54 M37, 66 M101, 45MB, 51 M38, 60 CJ5, 46 T3-C
MVPA 22099

Disclaimer: Any data posted is for general info only and may not be M37 specific or meet with the approval of some esteemed gurus.
SOTVEN
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Post by SOTVEN »

I HAD BOTH, RED AND BLACK. BOTH WORKED. IT SEEMS TO ME YOU HAVE A SMALL ADJUSTMENT PROBLEM. DID YOU INSTALL THE 6 RUBBER SEALS ON TOP OF THE NEW PLASTIC CAP? IF NOT, YOU WILL NOT HAVE A CONNECTION WITH THE ROTOR. I SUGGEST TRY TO MEASURE THE TWO CAPS ACCURETELY AGAINST EACH OTHER, AND PINPOINT IF THERE IS ANY HEIGHT DIFERANCE BETWEEN THE TWO. UPON INSTALLATION IT IS IMPOSIBLE TO MEASURE THE INSIDE GAPS. PERHAPS WITH A SMALL BATTERY AND A FLASH LIGHT LAMP YOU MIGHT BE ABLE TO FIND THE INTERUPTION OF YOUR CURRENT. GOOD LUCK FRIEND
LIFE IS SHORT AND ENDS UNEXPECTEDLY. MAKE EVERY MOMENT WORTH REMEMBERING.
MSeriesRebuild
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Post by MSeriesRebuild »

The black replacement caps are the cheap imports, the red ones are way better quality caps. You must be missing something somewhere, may be you are installing the cap without the seals, (already mentioned), or perhaps something about your distributor has been modified. I've seen all sorts of things done by folks who have not a clue about military distributors. Someone may well have worked on it prior to you. Figuring out what someone else has done is always the harder job.
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Lifer
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Post by Lifer »

MSeriesRebuild wrote: Figuring out what someone else has done is always the harder job.
Amen, Brother! Every project I've ever undertaken had been "fixed" by someone else first. Made my job harder every time!
"PER ARDUA AD ITER"
thejester
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Post by thejester »

i have measured the caps with callipers all the same..i do have the rubber seals in..it has done this on three different trucks..the two i have and a friends truck all with the same outcome..the rebuild came out of a known military parts supplier so i dought it was modified out of spec but maybe..It was sent with a red cap to me and had to put the black one back in
MSeriesRebuild
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Post by MSeriesRebuild »

thejester wrote:i have measured the caps with callipers all the same..i do have the rubber seals in..it has done this on three different trucks..the two i have and a friends truck all with the same outcome..the rebuild came out of a known military parts supplier so i dought it was modified out of spec but maybe..It was sent with a red cap to me and had to put the black one back in
Just because it came from a well known supplier means nothing. That shouldn't be, but none the less it is truth.
Charles Talbert
www.mseriesrebuild.com
Lifer
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Post by Lifer »

This is true. Any supplier can get a shipment of bad parts from the manufacturer. How he handles the situation is what makes the difference. A well known (and trusted) supplier will make good by replacing the bad part with a good one if he can or refunding the customer's money with an apology if he can't. "Point of sale" receipts are not what keeps a store in business. Customer satisfaction and loyalty do. Sadly, they don't seem to mention that in business school any more.
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MSeriesRebuild
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Post by MSeriesRebuild »

Lifer, much wisdom is in your statement as far as business is concerned, just doesn't get paid attention these days like it once did.

In the business we are in, other pit falls are in the mix as well. If new manufacture items are bad out of the box, a business man has some small recourse as he can at least make an attempt at backing up on the manufacturer. In our line, many items are surplus or from sellers who have only a few items that both buyer and seller know they will likely never do business again. Find some descrepancy in a deal like that, your chances of doing anything but take a beating is slim to none. As I've pointed out before, much government surplus is sold because there was a problem of some sort with it. Never buy government surplus unless you know how to properly inspect it and can take the time to do so. You are setting yourself up for heart break if you do. With that said, many parts sellers buy in the dark expecting the result to be as advertised, many times it isn't. Crooks are a plenty these days in that when a buyers goods are delivered and he realizes there is a problem; that is no longer seen as a money losing proposition most of the time. He simply plots a course to resell the stuff using the same tactic that was used on him. That is unloading as much, as fast as he can before another buyer catches on to the problem. A seller like this sources larger resale outlets in an effort to move most or all the bad stuff in a single transaction, and smiles all the way to the bank. Now when the stuff starts going out from there into private hands, the stink gets bad quickly when people realize they have bought bad stuff. They go back on the large retailer who most often is able to take the loss in stride and remove the lot from their inventory, only then realizing they have made a bad purchase. Why, because they did not inspect the goods before reselling.

What am I saying here, for both large retailers and 1 item buyers, DO NOT BUY STUFF UNLESS YOU ARE PREPARED TO GET SKINNED UNLESS YOU CAN INSPECT BEFORE PURCHASE. If you are ordering from us or some other established business in whom you have confidence that it will be made right, that is a wise step on the part of a buyer. I myself would always be the loser before screwing up good faith with my customers. Repeat customers or good word of mouth advertising is a HUGE asset to any business.

I'll give you a couple of good examples. Some time back, I bought a few M37 fuel primer kits. Upon attempting to install the first one, I quickly realized 1 part was missing. My first move was to open another kit, only to find it was not there either. Called the folks I bought them from, told them what I had found. Their reply, oh we have several hundred of these kits, but that part is missing from all of them. They offered no recourse and acted as if I was a fool for bringing it up. Did they bother to mention that they already knew this before I bought the kits, afraid not, just sold incomplete kits. Is this a crook, in my opinion it is, they knowingly misrepresented their product, and had no intent of making it right. All they had to do was tell buyers that a single component was missing and this is the price with one essential part not included.

Another incident, I had my radiator builder build a custom aluminum radiator for a customer's WWII vintage Jeep. The buyer was going on the cross country convoy and needed a reliable unit. My builder did not get it built within the time he had said, no excuse, he just didn't make it happen, first strike. Time got to be short, I leaned on the builder to get it finished and shipped so it could be installed prior to this event. Time got even closer, Finally they called saying it was ready. I had the builder drop ship it directly to the customer instead of it coming through our facility because of time savings. Customer gets it, attempts to install it, I get a call saying it doesn't fit, the shroud and the mounting brackets are incorrect. I have not seen it cause it went straight to the end user. I have no idea what is going on. I didn't mention that the customer removed his original radiator and shipped to us and we shipped to the builder, so he had an exact pattern to go by in building the new unit. No excuse for it not being done correctly in my eyes. In a word I'm caught in the middle and did not get to see the new radiator myself. The builder says he knew it was right, the end user says it wasn't. I paid the builder his price before he shipped it, that by the way was $300 higher than his quote. I passed the invoice on to the customer with no profit for us included, just a dollar for dollar exchange. What I got was a check for what the customer felt it was worth after he did last minute modifications to get it installed. I got beat several hundred $$$, what could I say, I had no proof that it was right or that it was wrong, cause I never inspected it, strike two. If indeed it was built incorrectly, do I blame the customer for his action, absolutely not. I took the loss with the following action, will I ever use this builder again, no, already sought out 2 other possible builders we will check out, strike three, you are out. Will I sell again to this customer in good faith trying to help him meet his deadline, I doubt it, but if I did, you better believe the $$ will come up front with the understanding that if there is a problem, we will inspect the goods and say they are good or bad. I simply don't know who was not truthful here, but obviously someone was not. Just a small sample here of how folks get burned so easily and innocently. I thought from the beginning that I was helping out to get a good product in the hands of a customer in need. I wound up with 2 parties plus myself upset, and losing several hundred dollars for my effort.

Live and learn, my Dad told me as a youngster, "son you will have to pay for your education." I'm here to tell you, he was 150% RIGHT. Being an upstanding business person in the times in which we live today; that can be one tough proposition, but I for one do not intend to fall short in that effort.
Charles Talbert
www.mseriesrebuild.com
thejester
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Post by thejester »

has anyone ever cut a cap apart?what is the ohms of the cap between the rotar contact and where the plug wire goes?
Lifer
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Post by Lifer »

I shouldn't think it would be a lot of resistance. The contact is just one piece of brass between where the rotor contacts it at the bottom and the plug wire connects at the top. My chintzy little $3.00 pocket multimeter would probably read somewhere around "zero ohms."
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thejester
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Post by thejester »

it is not one peice it has a peice of porceline in between with little metal caps on each end..it reads anywhere from 1500 to 3200 ohms on these reds cap anyway..cut a old one and you will see what i'am talking about..i cut a ford cap and a hei cap and they are both solid..maybe they put this in there for resistance or for radio noise?????
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