Lock out hub questions

[MSeriesRebuild]

Id like a set of dualmatics , just to cut the profile down. Ill never use them , I only drive on road but don't want them to be very noticeable.

Based on the fact that you never intend to lock the hubs into front axle drive, and appearance is an issue. There is a better way than spending $$$ on any locking hub. That is to simply remove the original hub caps, have a local machinist chuck them in his lathe and cut the splines out. Reinstall the original caps for a totally unchanged appearance. This does the same thing as disengaging a locking hub, with absolutely no change in appearance. You could always acquire another pair of caps to store in your truck in the event you ever would want front axle drive again.

[carolinamv]

That's good info Charles. Simple and a great idea.

If you have for example Super Winch lock out hubs installed and want to change them to dualmatics , would it be as easy as unbolting one and bolting on the other?

[isaac_alaska]

There is also what appears to be a factory set of "unlocked" front hubs. They appear identical from the outside, but inside they have a brass bushing instead of splines. This is what Charles is talking about except mine appear to be factory. Maybe they were just made by a a machinist with good attention to detail.

[carolinamv]

Another question , are locking hubs worth it for the person who drives 500miles a year tops. Just a simple question. I didn't plan on that as I already have locking hubs

[MSeriesRebuild]

To address the first question, yes change out is as simple as unbolting, removing, and bolting on a different type of lock-out hub. The lever type have been extinct as new for many years, no repair parts that I'm aware of either. With that in mind, installing the lever type would not be the best investment. If a problem arose, you would have to make your own parts to repair or scrap them most likely. Not really good odds with the initial cost of the investment considered.

2nd issue; the ones I've seen desplined have simply had the splines removed with no overbore to add brass support/wear material. If I were doing it, I would most definitely overbore and install a soft bronze bushing material to protect the axle splines, then if you ever want/need to reverse the procedure; odds of successful reversal are way better.

[MSeriesRebuild]

Another question , are locking hubs worth it for the person who drives 500miles a year tops. Just a simple question. I didn't plan on that as I already have locking hubs

Absolutely, lock-out hubs are a God send for front axle longevity. The fact that the mechanicals in the axle and steering knuckles are at rest with hubs unlocked; saves a tremendous amount of wear on all the components, even in the front drive sector of the t/case. Without lock-out hubs, you'll find it necessary to rebuild these wear prone areas of the front axle even if you never shift the front axle into engagement, that said, adding front wheel lock-out hubs to your truck is for sure one of the best, most cost effective upgrades you could do. If you are driving just fairly frequently, installing the high end hubs at a $1,500 initial investment is a cost savings measure over the long haul. One complete front axle/steering knuckle overhaul will cost you more than a pair of premium hubs. Understand that the running works keep right on turning in all the components even if you never shift into front wheel drive in the cab, wear never stops unless you have lock-outs. You will also be amazed at how much better the truck handles with the front wheels disengaged with lock-outs, less vibration, etc. You'll think you are driving a different truck.

[carolinamv]

Thanks Charles.
Its good to know if I buy a diff type of lock out hubs I can just unbolt the ones on my truck and bolt on a better type.

[isaac_alaska]

I'll grab my "unlocked" hubs next time Im at my storage unit. Although I don't know when that will be. I have no use for them
Pretty sure I've seen them on eBay too