Pintle question

dman · Post by **dman** » Fri Aug 29, 2008 7:20 am

I have the standard tailer pintle on my M37 but it is mounted horizontally instead of vertically. How do I rotate it?

Nickathome · Post by **Nickathome** » Fri Aug 29, 2008 8:13 am

Couldn't you just unbolt it and rotate it 90 degrees? Are you able to do this?

My B1 has a swivel pintle which I still am confused about because I read that B1's didn't have this feature, so mine must've been swapped.....

Lifer · Post by **Lifer** » Fri Aug 29, 2008 10:27 am

Nickathome wrote:Couldn't you just unbolt it and rotate it 90 degrees? Are you able to do this?

Not really! The pintle bolt holes form a rectangular pattern, not a square one. I imagine your pintle is probably a swivel one that's just "stuck." There's no earthly reason why someone would mount a stationary pintle in a horizontal position! If you look under the truck, you should see a big nut on the back of the pintle shaft if it's a swivel one. Douse it and the base of the pintle on the outside with a good penetrating oil (your choice) and let it soak for a day or two. Then, you may be able to put a pipe wrench on it and turn it back to a verticle position.

Post by **Cal_Gary** » Fri Aug 29, 2008 11:45 am

Agreed-sounds like it is stuck sideways....
Gary

MSeriesRebuild · Post by **MSeriesRebuild** » Fri Aug 29, 2008 1:39 pm

We have a 6' long pry bar that we use for such issues as this. Usually breaks them loose without a problem.

gwalker · Post by **gwalker** » Fri Aug 29, 2008 4:46 pm

Both 37 an 37b1's use the same pintle hook, they must rotate to allow
articulation w/ a trailer attached during off road use.

m-37Bruce · Post by **m-37Bruce** » Fri Aug 29, 2008 5:57 pm

As well as a stout cotter pin hold the swivel pintal in it's place.

dman · Post by **dman** » Sun Aug 31, 2008 4:41 pm

Yes it has the big nut and the cotter pin can I assume the cotter oin needs to be removed? I also see a grease fitting. Thanks

m-37Bruce · Post by **m-37Bruce** » Sun Aug 31, 2008 5:12 pm

If the zerk is clear, pump some lube in there, it can't hurt. Put the pipe in the jaws of the pintal.

k8icu · Post by **k8icu** » Sun Aug 31, 2008 6:17 pm

Only need to remove the cotter pin if you plan on removing the nut to take the pintle apart.

I have a question...... since we are on pintle hitches....my pintle hitch is a standard pintle with the four bolt hole much like found on a 1/4 ton that bolts to a steel plate that is either forged or welded not sure which to the "bolt" that goes through the frame with the big nut on it that allows it to swivle. Is this normal or something someone fabbed up?

Most trucks in this catigory i.e. puck up type weapons carriers the pintle and the "bolt" are forged as one piece. I can un bolt the pintle from the plate and it would just be a rotating metal plate. Just doesn't seem right.

MSeriesRebuild · Post by **MSeriesRebuild** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 6:38 am

k8icu wrote:Only need to remove the cotter pin if you plan on removing the nut to take the pintle apart.

I have a question...... since we are on pintle hitches....my pintle hitch is a standard pintle with the four bolt hole much like found on a 1/4 ton that bolts to a steel plate that is either forged or welded not sure which to the "bolt" that goes through the frame with the big nut on it that allows it to swivle. Is this normal or something someone fabbed up?

Most trucks in this catigory i.e. puck up type weapons carriers the pintle and the "bolt" are forged as one piece. I can un bolt the pintle from the plate and it would just be a rotating metal plate. Just doesn't seem right.

The early M37's had the type set up you are speaking of, the B1's have the later style that has been mentioned.

anthony manzella · Post by **anthony manzella** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 2:54 pm

perty much like Charles had said use a pry bar to strighten out , I belive thay were made to have some give for field opperations mine was at a slite angle and got her working just fine know !

knattrass · Post by **knattrass** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 5:11 pm

We went to hitch up the m101 and the hook does not open enough to accept the ring. We had to rotate it over to the 10 o'clock position so the jaw would open all the way. We thought the box was low but we had installed the spacers. Go figure.

peter e mark · Post by **peter e mark** » Tue Sep 02, 2008 5:22 am

Did one of you say "6' pry bar' ? Now that's the type of thinking I like. According to the esteemed annuls of advanced reenactor and military field repair logic, you treat such matters as follows: STEP ONE Force it , it will either turn, or break. STEP TWO: If it breaks, replace it....

peter e mark · Post by **peter e mark** » Tue Sep 02, 2008 5:22 am

Did one of you say "6' pry bar' ? Now that's the type of thinking I like. According to the esteemed annuls of advanced reenactor and military field repair logic, you treat such matters as follows: STEP ONE Force it , it will either turn, or break. STEP TWO: If it breaks, replace it....

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