timing the M37...

peter e mark · Post by **peter e mark** » Tue Aug 12, 2008 10:59 am

Hello trail ride wonderers, and today's timming question is: As per previous posts I installed a new crank pulley with recognizable timing marks, and in viewing those marks with my timming light, I have to adjust the distributor to the CCW extreme to even approach the timming mark range on the pulley ! Before I did that I found the timming light showing far away from the marks all together ! Nom wonder I needed ear plugs when I shut off the engine. My distributor adjustment is the 7/16 boilt head fastened to the block,( fine adjustment) but Big Johnny Midwest says there is a "course" adjustment underneath? Hs anyone had to make a course adjustment? Being so far off fron 4* BEFORE DEAD CENTER , will that make the engine miss? ( it is 4*" before " dead center, right?

MSeriesRebuild · Post by **MSeriesRebuild** » Tue Aug 12, 2008 1:49 pm

Optimum setting is 4* before TDC. You can loosen the bolt on the bottom of the distributor housing & gain a little bit. The usual close setting is for that bolt to be in the center of the slot it slides in. If all is well elsewhere, this will give you plenty of room to achieve the correct position before bumping into something. If this adjustment still isn't enough, most likely the oil pump shaft gear is not correctly messed with the cam gear. There is a simple procedure for installing it correctly if you find this is your problem.

peter e mark · Post by **peter e mark** » Tue Aug 12, 2008 4:58 pm

Thanks Charles, I will certainly give this my attention tomorrow after work. I look forward to my timming being correct, as I depend on "knowable" adjustments being in order to have a sense of faith in what I drive. I drove my 1942 WC52 7 hours to a re-enactment, and fought for two days with it , and drove back home again, and did it with confidence because I knew all adjustments that I was aware of was IN ORDER !

MSeriesRebuild · Post by **MSeriesRebuild** » Wed Aug 13, 2008 8:07 am

peter e mark wrote:Thanks Charles, I will certainly give this my attention tomorrow after work. I look forward to my timming being correct, as I depend on "knowable" adjustments being in order to have a sense of faith in what I drive. I drove my 1942 WC52 7 hours to a re-enactment, and fought for two days with it , and drove back home again, and did it with confidence because I knew all adjustments that I was aware of was IN ORDER !

If you need further assistance, just ask, call, etc.

peter e mark · Post by **peter e mark** » Wed Aug 20, 2008 7:55 am

Well, I did manage to identify and adjust the distributor "major" adjustment. And where the mid engine drian cock and nipple interferred with my ability to make that adjustment, i finally succeded. I found the timming at about 18* ATDC (how did the engine ever start? ) And now it is at 4* BTDC. I can't believe the difference ! It's like adding two more cylinders ! No more sluggishness, and I can drive uphill ! Now I can appreciate the 4:89 axles ! Why, I can even get a speeding ticket now ! My next chore is to re check my idle adjustment ( maybe the vacuum will inrease above 17" ) and idle speed ( sounds too fast right now) Thank you Charles, Lifer , KNATTRASS and all.......Peter ( I'll put away the C-4 ) Mark

GregL · Post by **GregL** » Sun Oct 05, 2008 1:47 pm

Charles, I've been reading the maint manual, TM 9-8030, and it says timing should be 2* ATDC. I'm curious about the difference with what you recommend. I'm not questioning your advice, I would just like to be clearer on the discrepancy. Thanks.

MSeriesRebuild · Post by **MSeriesRebuild** » Sun Oct 05, 2008 3:25 pm

GregL wrote:Charles, I've been reading the maint manual, TM 9-8030, and it says timing should be 2* ATDC. I'm curious about the difference with what you recommend. I'm not questioning your advice, I would just like to be clearer on the discrepancy. Thanks.

Much discussion has taken place over time concerning what the book says. Some say it's that way because of different fuel quality in 1950, personally I think it's just wrong. After TDC anything is simply too late on timing, period. 4* BEFORE TDC is where you will get the best performance on a healthy 230 Dodge engine. If you look, you will find lots of mistakes in those manuals. They are very good manuals when the broad prospective is viewed, however they were written by humans so we all know they aren't flawless for that reason if nothing else.

peter e mark · Post by **peter e mark** » Sun Oct 05, 2008 4:19 pm

I have indeed found mistakes in that particular maunual. An example is where reference is made to the carberator idle speed adjustment screw. In one picture, it is correctly identified, but in another, they point to the idle mixture screw instaed. Luckily for me, there are other dogs of war in my reenactor unit who know one from the other...

GregL · Post by **GregL** » Sun Oct 05, 2008 6:30 pm

Charles, thanks for the info. I'm getting ready to do my first timing check on my rig and I'll be very curious to see where it's at. Thanks again.

knattrass · Post by **knattrass** » Mon Oct 06, 2008 10:51 am

OK - so here I go... you use a standard timing light but supply a 12v source from another battery. Because I have the original spark wires, I need to pull the wire off of cyl #1. Since its a screw on, what do you use to make a short jumper out of so I can pick up the spark? Would a regular plug wire work? I installed Charles' electronic ignition

Thanks - Keith

GregL · Post by **GregL** » Mon Oct 06, 2008 12:21 pm

I've read that you can use a regular spark plug wire in order for the inductive clamp to pick up the spark. Or you can use the spark plug adapter that is in the M37 adapter test set, and John at MWM sells the adapter too.

For the 12v source for the timing light, I just clipped the red wire for the timing light and put connectors on it. Then I made a 10 ft piece of wire with connectors on both ends to insert in between the timing light and the red clamp, then I can put the red clamp right on the middle point of the batteries of the truck and have 12v relative to the frame.