Distributor Juice
Moderators: Cal_Gary, T. Highway, Monkey Man, robi
Distributor Juice
When you click on the ignition switch (before depressing the starter) should the distributor be receiving 24+ volts via wire #12 (I think it is) that connects to the distributor replenishment lead ? If it is supposed to, and doesn't, is the voltage regulator to blame? I'm diving back into my truck and back tracking a no spark issue.
Re: Distributor Juice
yes the dizzy should be receiving 24v as soon as the ignition is turned on, unlike some 12v vehicles with a 9v coil and ballast resistor.Murf wrote:When you click on the ignition switch (before depressing the starter) should the distributor be receiving 24+ volts
bush test: run a jump wire from starter to dizzy, pull the leaver, "with a lead disconnected" if it sparks its in the harness if no spark its in the dizzy.
.............................. use it ...............
Re: Distributor Juice
Thanks, rechecked it and the distributor is getting the full juice. Still no spark, guess I'll start surgery on the disributorRMS wrote:yes the dizzy should be receiving 24v as soon as the ignition is turned on, unlike some 12v vehicles with a 9v coil and ballast resistor.Murf wrote:When you click on the ignition switch (before depressing the starter) should the distributor be receiving 24+ volts
bush test: run a jump wire from starter to dizzy, pull the leaver, "with a lead disconnected" if it sparks its in the harness if no spark its in the dizzy.
Re: Distributor Juice
Ive run across a few dizzy no go's. the first is vent lines not connected/plugged cooking the coil.
civilian rotor on a military non sprung carbon cap.
lose carbon on cheap offshore cap
lose condenser/bad ground
to name a few
civilian rotor on a military non sprung carbon cap.
lose carbon on cheap offshore cap
lose condenser/bad ground
to name a few
.............................. use it ...............
Re: Distributor Juice
Thanks, got it working great (the innards were all new). My guess is the spring contact from the cap to the coil wasn't seated correctly on the coil or the rotor contact to the cap wasn't making contact. Those are the 2 things I fiddled with and now it zaps great. Now on to the (lack of) fuel delivery issue
Pushed fuel into the pump with a large syringe, pushed some into the carb inlet but I'm not sure the pump is pumping. Engine fired and ran on the ether but that's about it.
Pushed fuel into the pump with a large syringe, pushed some into the carb inlet but I'm not sure the pump is pumping. Engine fired and ran on the ether but that's about it.
Re: Distributor Juice
good to hear Murf that little spring can be hard to line up.
with the aid of a hand operated vacuum pump (and a bit of clear tube) disconnect the fuel line at the carb and attach pump (or mouth if you like the taste of gas). a vacuum pressure of less than 5lbs should draw the fuel from the tank through the lines filter and pump up to the carb. if more pressure was needed the filter or pickup could be clogged. if the gas drains back to the pump and does not stay in the top of the hose the diaphragm would be suspect.
does your pump not have a primer handle ? all my stock AC canadian m37 pumps have a hand primer. when the system is empty (not primed) the stroke of the primer leaver is great, as the fuel pressure increases the active stroke of the leaver decreases.Murf wrote:Pushed fuel into the pump with a large syringe, pushed some into the carb inlet but I'm not sure the pump is pumping. Engine fired and ran on the ether but that's about it.
with the aid of a hand operated vacuum pump (and a bit of clear tube) disconnect the fuel line at the carb and attach pump (or mouth if you like the taste of gas). a vacuum pressure of less than 5lbs should draw the fuel from the tank through the lines filter and pump up to the carb. if more pressure was needed the filter or pickup could be clogged. if the gas drains back to the pump and does not stay in the top of the hose the diaphragm would be suspect.
.............................. use it ...............
Re: Distributor Juice
First, I'm feeding fuel from about 2 feet away out of a gas can. I'm not ready to fill the tank, blow clean the lines and run fuel all the way up. I want to get it running prior to starting to cover everything with body parts. The pump valves/diaphragm are obviously shot. I can stand there all day and operate the primer lever. No resistance and the travel distance stays at an inch or inch and a half (remember I'm only pulling from 2') away. I disconnected the inlet to carb and put the Mityvac on it. I was easily able to pull the gas from my tank-through the pump-and into the cup 4-5 psi on the gauge. When I disconnect the cup and hold the line up, the gas drains down and back to the temporary gas tank
I do have a rebuild kit but it's an old NOS one. I feel better about trading the core for one with rubber that's ethanol safe.
I do have a rebuild kit but it's an old NOS one. I feel better about trading the core for one with rubber that's ethanol safe.
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isaac_alaska
- SFC

- Posts: 557
- Joined: Tue Jul 07, 2015 10:44 pm
- Location: Fairbanks, Alaska and Nome, AK
Re: Distributor Juice
Unless you are trying to stay totally correct, an electric fuel pump is a nice upgrade that eliminates the possibility of your fuel pump diaphragm failing and filling your crankcase with gas
Isaac
Fairbanks, AK
Civilian WM300 on DC3 tires
'52 M37 on 11x16 Michelin
'52 M37 on Apple R-1 tractor tires
Photo Gallery
Fairbanks, AK
Civilian WM300 on DC3 tires
'52 M37 on 11x16 Michelin
'52 M37 on Apple R-1 tractor tires
Photo Gallery
Re: Distributor Juice
I have debated the electric vs mechanical pump. I do want it to look stock. I was thinking about making the mechanical unit a dummy and having fuel bypass the lower section somehow.



