So now, to the blown head gasket...

[Cal_Gary]

I shared this issue briefly in my Topeka post over in the Soap Box area.

Today I contacted a couple of automotive machine shops to price getting my head resurfaced and magna-fluxed: $155 seems to be the going rate around here to media blast, flux, and resurface, so later today I will see about pulling mine off (yeah, I'll see about pix, too!). Guess I'll get some Silver engine paint for the head while I'm at it.

I'm also going through the red tape of having an auto parts store get me a head gasket-they have one in Denver, promised that it would be shipped here locally by Saturday morning, yet after a bunch of excuses I still don't have it (with a projected delivery of Tuesday evening at this point). I should have followed my instincts and just gotten one on line (which will be my next move if they don't have my head gasket tonight).

More to follow,
Gary

[52 M-42]

You did confirm that it was a bad head gasket, correct?

Where did the head gasket fail? Do you know why it failed?

Just curious about what caused the failure and the extent of the damage.

I hope getting it fixed turns out to be easier than expected.

[T. Highway]

Dying to see what you found when you opened it up Gary. (AREA OF FAILURE)

Don't forget to pick up thread sealant when you get the head gasket. Unless you already have some to seal up the head bolts.

Bert

[Cal_Gary]

At a minimum the head gasket is blown; I'll know more on Thursday or Friday when I can dive into it. My conversation with John Bizal suggested that the head gasket failure was the likely cause since the 230 block and the head are pretty robust, but I will explore all possibilities once I have the head off.

I also received the new head gasket tonight; it will be at least a couple of weeks before I can get the head to the machine shop.
Gary

[HingsingM37]

Gary,

Sorry to hear your truck is down. Let us know what you find.

It would be a good idea to replace the head bolts as well if they are not newer. The ones near water jackets tend to get corroded. If they are too old and have been torqued over and over they may be stretched and will not hold torque properly. Make sure to use a good spray copper coat on the gasket as well.

David

[Cal_Gary]

Thanks for the advice and well-wishes, guys. Here's the rundown:
I tore into this today, took a couple of hours dodging thunderstorms in the area. Long story short, the gasket blew between #5 and #6, and appears to have been working toward that finality for some time. I haven't had time to inspect the block in detail yet, but the spark plugs aren't fouled nor oily, and the cylinders appear to still have the cross-hatch pattern intact, leading me to believe that the engine hadn't run too much after the last rebuild. All of the valves appear to be in good shape too. I am concerned at the extent of the head gasket damage-also noticed that the bolt hole area on the gasket is wallowed out. I suppose that the back-and-forth pressure when on the compression stroke could do this but am not sure.

Anyway, here's a look:
Gary

[j mccormick]

It looks like it was leaking some between No 4 and No 5 cylinders there by the valves too. I would think the head is warped and probably not re-torqued after the gasket was replaced last time. Hopefully the block is straight. The area between #1 and #2 cylinders look a little iffy too.

Joe

[just me]

And between valves 2 and 3 cylinders. The not retorqued scenario seems pretty likely if the head and deck are within spec of flatness. Rebuilt. Run a small bit and then stored. Never retorqued would do that.

[Cal_Gary]

Thanks guys,
Closer inspection of the photos confirms your findings. I felt that some of the head bolts came loose w/o much effort which could explain some of the leakage. I'm also happy to report that the top surfaces between cylinders remain intact, as John cautioned that sometimes that small area gets worn down when the head gasket blows and then the engine subsequently overheats.

I'm going to have the head work done in a couple of weeks. In the meantime I can replace my leaking freeze plugs and flush out the cooling system. I'll also spend some time ensuring the block top surface is straight. Of course, once I have it all re-assembled I'll change the oil and filter.
More to follow,
Gary

[Carter]

I have seen a number of these 230s gaskets fail between 5 and 6, never figured out why but that area seems to be where the 230's head gaskets let go most often. I have wondered if it had something to do with coolant not being able to circulate thoroughly at the back of the engine.

[pwrwagonfire]

I have seen a number of these 230s gaskets fail between 5 and 6, never figured out why but that area seems to be where the 230's head gaskets let go most often. I have wondered if it had something to do with coolant not being able to circulate thoroughly at the back of the engine.

I've wondered the same thing! Seen 3 with this issue...mine included! Plugged coolant system maybe?


-T

[Carter]

Possibly not enough flow through coolant tube that slides into the block behind the water pump, maybe?

[j mccormick]

An old trick when you put it back together is to soak the head gasket in water for several hours before assembly. It lets the gasket compress better on initial torque-down. But re-torque it after it reaches operating temperature too. Spray the gasket with copper coat before you put it on too.

Joe

[w30bob]

An old trick when you put it back together is to soak the head gasket in water for several hours before assembly.

Isn't the head gasket made of copper?

bob

[Cal_Gary]

Thanks guys,
My gasket is a composite Fel-Pro that has copper top and bottom with some other material in the middle.

I've yet to pull my coolant tube, but plan to flush out the system once I can find a daggone freeze plug installer-that's a foreign tool around here.
More to follow,
Gary