Hello I may buy a M37 and I a I what you to suggest me the important things that I have to ensure that come with the truck, fe does it have any batteries supporst that are usually removed? I am refering to all taht things that have been removed for the tracks and are basic for a good running of the vehicle.
Another thing to have in mind is how hard are the engines of these trucks I mean how is the possibility of finding a truck with a bad shape engine, and how hard is to restore it.
All coments related with the things to check when buying a M37 are absolutely welcome.
Thank you very much indeed
important things in a M37 buy
Moderators: Cal_Gary, T. Highway, Monkey Man, robi
important things in a M37 buy
OLDSMOBILE 88 ROCKET 1955
CJ3B MITSUBISHI WILLYS JEEP
DODGE M37
LAND ROVER LIGHTWEIGHT LONG WHEEL BASE SOFT TOP
LAND ROVER LIGHTWEIGH LONG WHEEL BASE HARD TOP
CJ3B MITSUBISHI WILLYS JEEP
DODGE M37
LAND ROVER LIGHTWEIGHT LONG WHEEL BASE SOFT TOP
LAND ROVER LIGHTWEIGH LONG WHEEL BASE HARD TOP
Hello M37 Dodge! I suspect nobody else has replied yet because there are so many different ways to address your questions, so I'll lead off...
If possible, find one that has all or most of the parts intact. While parts are a'plenty over here (if you have the $$$), they may be next to impossible to find in Europe. Also, the winch models are more desireable, for obvious reasons, and to convert one to a winch model will run you around $2000 just for the necessary parts (which in some cases are hard to find, anyway).
I haven't yet tackled an engine rebuild, but the old 230 is a simple design even if it does not have the power we'd all like. As far as battery supports, I'm not sure what you mean, but the battery box can accomodate 2 batteries because it's originally a 24 volt system with two batteries wired in Series.
Rust is the biggest enemy of these vehicles. Be especially cautious when shopping - check the undersides of the doors, tool box compartment, bed, and fold down the windshield frame to ensure the underside cab where the windshield frame sits is not rusted through.
Also check for excessive play in the steering box, and take a good look at the entire cooling system-it is sure to need flushing out. It also goes without saying that you should pay close attention to the brakes, clutch, and plan on preventive maintenance as you work through each sub-project on your M.
Best of luck on your search-let us know if you get one, we never get tired of viewing our members' M pictures!
Gary
If possible, find one that has all or most of the parts intact. While parts are a'plenty over here (if you have the $$$), they may be next to impossible to find in Europe. Also, the winch models are more desireable, for obvious reasons, and to convert one to a winch model will run you around $2000 just for the necessary parts (which in some cases are hard to find, anyway).
I haven't yet tackled an engine rebuild, but the old 230 is a simple design even if it does not have the power we'd all like. As far as battery supports, I'm not sure what you mean, but the battery box can accomodate 2 batteries because it's originally a 24 volt system with two batteries wired in Series.
Rust is the biggest enemy of these vehicles. Be especially cautious when shopping - check the undersides of the doors, tool box compartment, bed, and fold down the windshield frame to ensure the underside cab where the windshield frame sits is not rusted through.
Also check for excessive play in the steering box, and take a good look at the entire cooling system-it is sure to need flushing out. It also goes without saying that you should pay close attention to the brakes, clutch, and plan on preventive maintenance as you work through each sub-project on your M.
Best of luck on your search-let us know if you get one, we never get tired of viewing our members' M pictures!
Gary
Cal_Gary
1954 M37 W/W
MVPA Correspondent #28500
G741.org Forum member since 2004
1954 M37 W/W
MVPA Correspondent #28500
G741.org Forum member since 2004
On the engine question, many of the old trucks will have bad engines if they haven't been run in a long time. Rebuilding them is not hard, and parts are readily available. Sometimes, all you need is a part or two. Other times, you may have to completely rebuild the engine. If you have to do a complete rebuild, have all the right equipment, and know how to do it yourself, you can do it for under 1.000 Euros. If you must pay someone else to rebuild it, you may have to pay as much as 1.500 or 2.000 Euros. (I'm having my engine rebuilt professionally, and it will cost me right at 1.300 Euros when it is finished.)
"PER ARDUA AD ITER"
Cal_Gary and Lifer, at first say you thank for answer my questions.
I am going to buy a m37b1 from an eurpoean contry seller, and I will have no chance to have a look onit. The seller seems to be a serious person and thats the reason I am going to buy it without seen it, wel this and the price of the truck 2.000 euros. He says that it comes form the army and it is in operational condition, it runs by its self. I do not know if it has winch or not, although I think it has it.
Regarding battery supports I mean if there is any spare to fix the batteries to the truck to avoid movement when driving.
The seller said that before send the truck they test them to be sure that every thing is ok.
Regarding the play in the sterring box, how can it be cheked?
ABout the engine I think that it should not be in a bad shape because at first it truns on, and this trucks are not the first ones, i think it could be form 60S so....
Thanks all for your collaboration.
Ill keep you informed.
William
I am going to buy a m37b1 from an eurpoean contry seller, and I will have no chance to have a look onit. The seller seems to be a serious person and thats the reason I am going to buy it without seen it, wel this and the price of the truck 2.000 euros. He says that it comes form the army and it is in operational condition, it runs by its self. I do not know if it has winch or not, although I think it has it.
Regarding battery supports I mean if there is any spare to fix the batteries to the truck to avoid movement when driving.
The seller said that before send the truck they test them to be sure that every thing is ok.
Regarding the play in the sterring box, how can it be cheked?
ABout the engine I think that it should not be in a bad shape because at first it truns on, and this trucks are not the first ones, i think it could be form 60S so....
Thanks all for your collaboration.
Ill keep you informed.
William
OLDSMOBILE 88 ROCKET 1955
CJ3B MITSUBISHI WILLYS JEEP
DODGE M37
LAND ROVER LIGHTWEIGHT LONG WHEEL BASE SOFT TOP
LAND ROVER LIGHTWEIGH LONG WHEEL BASE HARD TOP
CJ3B MITSUBISHI WILLYS JEEP
DODGE M37
LAND ROVER LIGHTWEIGHT LONG WHEEL BASE SOFT TOP
LAND ROVER LIGHTWEIGH LONG WHEEL BASE HARD TOP
-
- 1SG
- Posts: 1083
- Joined: Mon Oct 22, 2007 3:47 pm
- Location: West Grove, Pa
Sight unseen
In my opinion you are taking a big risk going into this sight unseen. How well do you know the person you are relying on here? You had better hope this guy is reputable and not some con man! If at all possible have yourself and or a friend go and inspect this truck in person....This way you will know exactly what you are in for.
Last edited by Nickathome on Sat Feb 16, 2008 6:08 am, edited 1 time in total.
At the very least, take a knowledgeable mechanic with you to check it out. I'm sure there are many qualified truck mechanics in Spain. If he looks at it and says it's not worth 2,000 Euros. listen to him! If he agrees that the truck is sound, then 2,000 Euros is a good price. I hope it is a good one. You will enjoy playing with it for a very long time! 

"PER ARDUA AD ITER"
Check the steering first by just grabbing the steering wheel with one hand at 12 oclock and turning it to either side, determining how far it moves before the wheels on the ground start to turn. Plan on replacing your tie rod ends first, then check for excessive play. If still sloppy, check and /or replace the steering drag link innards (4) and check for excessive play again. If it is still too loose, the steering box will likely need to be rebuilt or replaced. (I had to replace my box-1/3 of a turn of the steering wheel before the tires turned was absolutely scary). Once I replaced these items (in that order), I now have about an inch of play before the tires start to turn.
Gary
Gary
Cal_Gary
1954 M37 W/W
MVPA Correspondent #28500
G741.org Forum member since 2004
1954 M37 W/W
MVPA Correspondent #28500
G741.org Forum member since 2004