Home 
On another note - does anyone know where some of my missing parts are?
LU-4 woes - still.
Moderators: Cal_Gary, T. Highway, Monkey Man, robi
LU-4 woes - still.
After disassembling and reassembling, checking tolerances & such on my LU-4, I'm rather convinced that the bushing on the clutch end of the drum is OUT too far by 1/16". This winch was operated without the top plate in a previous life. My question - is this possible? I've gone through the worm gear housing - checked engagement of the drum drive shaft, and everything else I could think of. Any suggestions? I mean besides pressing the bushing in ...
On another note - does anyone know where some of my missing parts are?
On another note - does anyone know where some of my missing parts are?
You can trust your mother, but you can't trust your ground.
-
MSeriesRebuild
- 1SG
- Posts: 2832
- Joined: Sat Oct 20, 2007 4:35 am
- Location: Norwood, NC
- Contact:
Re: LU-4 woes - still.
No, the top plate & the bottom rod plays a very important role in the 2 end housings being held in perfect alignment with each other. If the winch has seen heavy use without the top plate securely in place, this may be your problem now because without it the whole winch assembly can become distorted under load warping this & that out of shape very easily. Anything from the drum shaft being bent to the end housings being warped up or even cracked. The frame rails flex under load as well without the end housings being held in proper alignment. No telling what you may find on a very close inspection. Is the bushing you suspect isn't right pressed all the way in? It should be flush with the outer edge of its bore. Running with the assembly flexing & wobbling may have cracked the bushing causing it to loosen & work out. Running the assembly out of alignment will cause severe oil leakage, even with new seals.N1VSM wrote:After disassembling and reassembling, checking tolerances & such on my LU-4, I'm rather convinced that the bushing on the clutch end of the drum is OUT too far by 1/16". This winch was operated without the top plate in a previous life. My question - is this possible? I've gone through the worm gear housing - checked engagement of the drum drive shaft, and everything else I could think of. Any suggestions? I mean besides pressing the bushing in ...
On another note - does anyone know where some of my missing parts are?
Charles Talbert
www.mseriesrebuild.com
www.mseriesrebuild.com
-
Tom @ Snake River
- SSGT
- Posts: 312
- Joined: Mon Oct 22, 2007 6:47 pm
- Location: Eastern Idaho
- Contact:
I have the proper top plates and bottom rods if you need them. Tom
www.snakeriver4x4.com
www.snakeriver4x4.com
www.snakeriver4x4.com
M-37's - WC-51 - M-29C - WC-25 cc - CCKW
M-274 - M-101 - G-527 Water Buffalo
G-7117 Chevy
M-37's - WC-51 - M-29C - WC-25 cc - CCKW
M-274 - M-101 - G-527 Water Buffalo
G-7117 Chevy
End (?) of the story
It turns out the flanges (sides that keep the cable on the drum) were flared and bent. Ouch! Cheaper to buy NOS including shipping to get it straightened. I also get the added bonus of better bushings!
You can trust your mother, but you can't trust your ground.
Great.
My top plate was missing, and the bottom rod as well. That would explain why I could never keep oil in mine. I gave up after a while. I would fill it and there would be a puddle under it when I came out the next day. Teh guy before me rebuilt it right before I got the truck, I always assumed he put a bad seal in it, but now the truth comes out.
My top plate was missing, and the bottom rod as well. That would explain why I could never keep oil in mine. I gave up after a while. I would fill it and there would be a puddle under it when I came out the next day. Teh guy before me rebuilt it right before I got the truck, I always assumed he put a bad seal in it, but now the truth comes out.
