Looking for unit history on M37 vehicle identification numbe

[Paddyofurniture]

Looking for unit history on M37 vehicle identification number 80028067

Is there any way to trace the last unit to have my truck?

Truck number B-14, Company B, vehicle 14?

Unit number 42 over 242S

Hood number 2427367

Also what is the best way to clean the data plates mounted on the glove box door?

Thanks,

Paddyofurniture

[cuz]

The data plates can be done up very nice. Read this post:

[quote]Re: Data Tag Cleaning
http://g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=105&t=144793
by D Pizzoferrato » Fri Jul 03, 2009 5:06 am
Why not restore your data plates?

It's an easy process that begins with removing them from the master plate.
You will noticed that the plates are etched brass, having highlights (raised surfaces) and low surfaces where the brass was etched away. This process was explained to me many years ago and I have used it countless times with perfect results.

First, one must understand how the brass plates are made (the guy that taught me this technique worked in a plant that made data plates for industrial equipment back during his misguided youth).

The plain brass plates go thru a screenprinting process where a preservative is applied (printed) to the highlight areas. This would be the shiny yellow brass borders and data on the plate. After the preservative is applied, the plates are sent to an acid bath that etches (eats) away the areas that were not printed with the preservative. Once they have been etched, the acid is neutralized in another bathing process. The plates are now ready for the background color (paint). In our case, the plates will be painted black. After curing, the plates are treated to another bath which removes the protective preservative that was printed on in the first step, leaving the nice yellow brass shining out of the black background.

Now that you have an understanding of the original process, the restoration is a simple task.

After you have removed the individual plates from the master plate (you will need to restore the master plate before reassembly), use some fine sandpaper to polish up all of the highlight areas. You want the yellow brass to shine as boldly as possible at this point. Don't overdo it to the point that the highlights are sanded away, just get a shiny brass presentation on all of the highlights.

Next, use any good paint prep cleaner to remove any sanding residue or oils, etc.

Once cleaned, lay the plates out and give them a couple of good coatings of black lacquer from a spray can. Do not disturb the plates until dry. Looks like a good time for several adult beverages or to tackle a few things on the "honey-do" list.

When the paint is good and dry, you will lightly sand away the paint from the highlight areas (this is why it was important to shine them up beforehand, you want to sand as little, but as much as needed to remove the paint from the important areas). This step requires practice and time to develop your own technique. The guy that taught me this insisted on a 1200-1500 grit wet sanding to do this step. You will need to try to keep the plates flat while sanding, and concentrate on the highlight areas only. I have had good results using a coarser grit on a small oak block about 3/4" square; much like an eraser. Water and patience (and a good premium cigar if you are so inclined) are your best friends here. Experiment and see what works for you. If you really mess up, repaint and try again. For minor blemishes, I fill in with a new black permanent Sharpie marker. For major goofs, repaint. You really can't mess up, you always have the option to repaint and try again.

Once all have been sanded, exposing the highlights, dry them and spray a clearcote on them. They can then be reattached to the master plate using proper rivets from one of the parts suppliers. Always try Ron first. Once reattached to the restored master plate, I spray the whole assembly with another clearcote.

I can generally finish a set of six plates in about two hours time (not counting time to watch paint dry). My first set took considerably longer. Once you get the hang of this easy technique, you'll be horrifed by all of those unrestored data plates on otherwise nicley restored vehicles and will be volunteering to restore theirs.

Here is a set that I did, This was my first attempt http://www.odcloth.com/weebeegraphics/28.jpg
http://www.odcloth.com/weebeegraphics/7.jpg

This technique also works on etched aluminum plates. An added bonus to this process is that your DoD, Serial Number and Inspector's Stamp will really stand out with the black lacquer residue left in the stamping impressions.

Post pics of your results if you dare to try this.

David Pizzoferrato
Pizzoferrato Ent./Weebee Webbing

http://www.odcloth.com/1955m170.html
[quote]

[Paddyofurniture]

Thanks David I will give it a try.

Paddyofurniture

[Sal]

Paddy. Looks like your truck was in the National Guard, 42nd Rainbow Div. 242 Sig Battalion which is in Long Island NY....

[Paddyofurniture]

Thanks Sal.

Paddyofurniture

[Paddyofurniture]

Based on my truck’s numbers, Truck number B-14, Company B, vehicle 14
Unit number 42 over 242S

My truck a 1952 M37 is from the National Guard, 42nd Rainbow Div. 242 Signal Battalion Company B, S-1 Personnel officer.

This unit was in Long Island NY until October 1985 when the 242 Signal Battalion Company B being transfused to the Delaware National Guard 198 Signal Battalion in Wilmington, DE

Thanks,

Paddyofurniture