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I'd like to remove the carriers to have my differentials rebuilt and regeared. I know that the rear axle shafts can be pulled out without removing the wheels, but it's unclear to me whether the same is true on the front. Will I need to remove the wheels, steering components, etc on the front to pull the front axle shafts?

If I remember correctly, you will need to remove the wheel, hub/drum and the bearings to access the stub axle. Then after removing the stub axle you can pull out the axle shafts. The knuckle and the steering gear can be left alone.
If you have any doubts, just take a look in the manual. It’s pretty well described.

Cheers,
Rob

Thank you Rob. Sounds like it's a little more work that I initially thought.

- David

I’ve decided to go ahead and remove my differentials so that Charles Talbert can regear them. I fall closer to the amateur side of the mechanic spectrum, so I will be figuring this out as I go.

The rear differential was fairly straightforward. Just unbolt and slide out the drive flanges/axle shafts, unbolt the differential cover, and it comes right out. I bought a Harbor Freight transmission jack with a ratchet strap that worked perfectly to secure the differential.

Next up is the front, which will be a little more involved.

Nice work NCM! Yes, the front will be a bit more involved but nothing you can't handle! thanks for the photos too!
Gary

I would have Bob Stahl rebuild them. he makes an improved side thrust washer that goes in all his rebuilds. I bet no one has rebuilt more of these diffs than Bob Stahls outfit.

Kaegi wrote:I would have Bob Stahl rebuild them. he makes an improved side thrust washer that goes in all his rebuilds. I bet no one has rebuilt more of these diffs than Bob Stahls outfit.

I'm guessing this is the place you are recommending?

Veteran Vehicles in Wrentham, MA

John Mc wrote:

Kaegi wrote:I would have Bob Stahl rebuild them. he makes an improved side thrust washer that goes in all his rebuilds. I bet no one has rebuilt more of these diffs than Bob Stahls outfit.

I'm guessing this is the place you are recommending?

Veteran Vehicles in Wrentham, MA

Yes that's them. prices very good too

I have talked to Bob several times and agree that he has a great reputation. If I lived closer to Boston I would probably have him do it for me. M Series Rebuild is in my backyard and I trust Charles with the job as well. They also use an updated side thrust washer.

NCM wrote:I have talked to Bob several times and agree that he has a great reputation. If I lived closer to Boston I would probably have him do it for me. M Series Rebuild is in my backyard and I trust Charles with the job as well. They also use an updated side thrust washer.

they are are heavy! closer better.

Cal_Gary wrote:Nice work NCM! Yes, the front will be a bit more involved but nothing you can't handle! thanks for the photos too!
Gary

Thank you! I was a little apprehensive about digging in at first, but I’m picking up some confidence. I’ve been fortunate so far in that nothing has taken too much persuasion to come loose. Just a little heat here and there.

I started to work on the front. First, the I needed to get the tie rod out of the way. It was a little stubborn, but it came out after I jacked the wheel off the ground. The front differential has one extra long stud that holds a brake line splitter - I was able to move the attached brake line somewhat out of the way but that may present a challenge when it comes time to pull the differential out. Wheels are off too (broke a ratchet in the process). I’ve ordered the 2 9/16” socket used to remove the front wheel bearing nuts. Question: can I remove the entire drum/hub assembly as one?

I split the drum and hub due to the weight (also because the 3 retainer screws on mine are long rusted through). No need to invite a back injury!
Nice to see you're getting the 2 9/16 octagonal socket. I always hated to see guys use a chisel on those wheel bearing nuts because they didn't have that socket. FOR ALL, those sockets are easy to come by so you owe it to yourself to get one-no old Dodge owner should be without it!
Gary

yes you can remove hub and drum together. if you do ever separate the drums and hubs do NOT mix them up. the drums are machined when mounted to their hub.
also when re installing the differentials only use NOS gaskets. the aftermarket gaskets are not the correct thickness. they throw off the axle shaft alignment. The world is full of NOS gaskets form most the suppliers.

More updates! My giant socket came in and the adjusting nuts came right out. I pulled the drums and hubs out as one unit to keep it simple. The outer bearing cones popped right out as well. Five more bolts on each side and the steering knuckles are off. So much grease behind them! But finally I can pull the front axle shafts out. Back to the differential - there’s a brake line that attaches to the front differential that makes removal difficult. Ultimately I had to unbolt and separate the T-linkage to create enough space for the differential to slide out. Now they are with M-Series rebuild getting 4.30 gearing. I’m also going to install their disc brake kit on my front axle.

I couldn’t find pics of this process, so I’m posting this in case it will help someone else.

thanks for your description, and especially pictures. I try to post pics of what I do, as I have found studying photos of what others have done often helps me to figure out my own approach, and see what tools I may need to attempt this or that. It is troublesome to get partway into a project, then find I lack some tool or other to continue, and looking at photos of what others have done does a lot to reduce that occurrence. Stay safe, thanks, NV