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I have a burned #6 exhaust valve I want to replace. I've already pulled the hood and fender and the head. Getting at the #6 exhaust seems pretty difficult. Does anyone have a good procedure to use? I do have the special valve spring compressing tool.

Thanks

Just don't drop the keepers into the crankcase! The only way to do it is to do it.

By "special valve spring compressing tool", do you mean one of these? The military referred to it as a "LIFTER, valve spring, part no. 41-L-1410", and similar variations were made by Sunnen, Clark-Feather, Snap-On Blue Point, Zimm, Wilde, etc. I find these much easier to use on our flatheads than the C-clamp style.



You might also find one of these useful when re-installing the valve stem locks. The military tool number was 41-R-2391-54 ("INSTALLER, valve lock"), and the civilian equivalents included Miller C-486, KD 605, KD 609, or Snap-On Blue Point CF-7.



or



All of these tools are fairly common on places like eBay, and for reasonable cost.

Are you going to measure the valve guide ID for wear, and check the valve-to-seat contact when the new valve is installed?

I have the bottom pictured lock installer. I found it useless on my rebuild. Was far easier to do it with a gob of grease and a finger. I stuffed rags in the tappet box to prevent losing one. I have the same spring compressor shown and it works well. I also have a plier type that for me, worked even better. A bit more finger clearance.

I second the plan of stuffing rags in the oil return holes. I like the big c clamp style compressor. gives more room

Worked for me to have Charles Talbert's crew do my valve repair.

NV