g741.org

Looking to do a Dana 60 Axle swap, I have a set of Dodge Dana 60's out of an 83 W350 ready to go. I have been looking around to see how others have done their swaps and it seems like there are a few ways to accomplish the swap. The rear looks straight forward almost a direct bolt in, moving the existing perches slightly inboard to line up with the springs. The front seems a bit more complicated, some people shorten the long side 3 1/2" and others fab up a new hanger on the passenger side 1 1/2" outboard to make up the difference and move the drivers side perch.
Looking to see if anyone has any tips or suggestions that they have from when they swapped their axles?

i outboarded the spring on the passenger side. Seemed easier than sending the axle out to get shortened.

Good point, I did the power steering today and took a good hard look at it. 4:89 gears might be easier.

Got to think about the rear with its offset differential too.

superbee70 wrote:i outboarded the spring on the passenger side. Seemed easier than sending the axle out to get shortened.

And Cheaper!

I change my axles to ones off of a M882. I moved the passenger sides spring out the 1.5 inch I also moved the rear of the rear of the spring out to get it straight on the truck. It wasn't to hard to do. The advantage of changing the axles is you get disk brakes up front. Conversion to disk in rear for a relatively low cost and in my case 4.10 gearing.

The advantage of changing the axles is you get disk brakes up front. Conversion to disk in rear for a relatively low cost and in my case 4.10 gearing.

definite points to consider WIth the axle swap you get better brakes, better gearing and better choice of rims and tires just buying the 489's would cover the cost of rear disc swap I haven't looked at rear driveline angles yet but don't see that as an insurmountable problem I'm also doing a 360/NP435 swap so shouldn't have a problem pushing the lower gears.

If you are doing a transfer case swap then you might as well do axles or otherwise you are going to be doing a LOT of math and cutting and welding to get the compound angles straightened out so that the rear u-joints work in phase. Basically you will need to rotate one yoke a certain number of degrees one way or the other to match the compound angle of the offset rear. Probably much easier and cheaper to swap rears.

I know this is a bit older of a post, but thought be good to reuse. I was looking into do a 60 swap as well, why not just weld a new spring perch on the dana 60, so you can just mount to the original springs ? I realize there may be about a 1 inch off set to one side, but with the fenders so big, it will almost be unnoticeable.

And you can drive the centered rear axle from the e-brake output of the transfer case. A lot less noise and temperature in the t-case when you drive in 4x2.
I did it long ago and the noise difference was amazing.

Saberr wrote:I know this is a bit older of a post, but thought be good to reuse. I was looking into do a 60 swap as well, why not just weld a new spring perch on the dana 60, so you can just mount to the original springs ? I realize there may be about a 1 inch off set to one side, but with the fenders so big, it will almost be unnoticeable.

The Dana 60 front axle has the spring perch built into the differential housing and the short axle tube doesn't have much room to put a different spring perch.

There was a article in Power wagon advertiser a few years a go about an M37 Dana 60 swap. It involve modifying the cast perch and cutting and moving the other perch. This way you would not have to modify the suspension. I will see if I can dig it up.

I think vintage power wagons has 4.30 gears now for 9 5/8 stock diff if you live in flatlands might be a good option

my '52 is just about completely stock, the only thing not is my cup holder on the dash, and an extra oil pressure gage on the steering wheel shaft. I drive mine several or more times a week, but other than an occasional longer drive, I am all in my town in UpState SC. A few small hills. My axle ratio is the original one, and I am quite happy with my lower gearing. I like being able to use my 3'd or 4th gear without having to down shift for hills and turns. As long as my truck is rolling, I can stay in 3'rd, and the low gearing of 4th and the torque of my 230 ci motor means I don't have to "lug" my engine, or rev up in 3d in my daily driving. I think if I lived where it was really flat, and did a lot of "high speed" driving then the change to highway gearing might be nice. But I am happy at my 40 mph cruise. I have lock out hubs on the front, and rarely use 4X4 driving.

Have a great thanksgiving, NAM VET, aka Hal Copple, UpState SC