g741.org

As I move daily along the path of the restoration of my own truck, after removing the "hard top", with nary a mark left on the cab, and then folding my windshield down for likely the first time in 3+ decades, went to drive my new "ragtop", and heard a hissing noise, and it was coming from the broken off metal tubing that comes from the big nut that holds the driver's folding hinge to the cab, which of course broke off leaving a nubbin of metal tube on the hinge attachment. How the metal tube that then connects to the rubber hose running up the inside of the left windshield frame is supposed to arc when the windshield is folded is beyond my understanding. So I tried with a wrench to see if the metal "thing" on the hinge was supposed to rotate with folding the windshield, and it won't budge. I put a short piece of tube with a plug on the Nubbin, to avoid a lean condition on my rear two cylinders, since I am running an electric fuel pump, and have a fitting and connecting rubber hose from a nipple fitting I screwed into the NPT female port available on the intake manifold.

Anyway, any guidance for me on how this metal contraption to provide vacuum to my military wiper motors is supposed to work? I will try to source a replacement hinge/tube thingy from somewhere, and just put rubber line between the windshield frame hard line, and the hard line at the hinge nut where it snapped off, leaving the nubbin.

Since the Houston disaster, non-ethanol gas is not available in my community. Only a quarter tank left. As I accumulate miles on my truck around town, I am gaining confidence in my driving of my '37, turning, braking, accelerating, waving at others, and so forth. Just a great feeling to step up into the open cab, stand on the cab floor, look around, see what is all around, then fire it up and head out. Put in three sets of aviation latching seating belts. My rebuilt engine just purrs, and idles, and pulls well up hills. Just had a local 4 wheel shop instal one of Charles T's custom rear diff pinion seals, and dry back there now, no need to wipe any gear oil off the garage floor anymore.

What fun!!!

NV

I need to check my truck to make sure which part pivots in what. JJ in the link (Vacuum tubing) goes through KK which is the pivot bolt
http://www.surplusjeep.com/M37/Images/18-7.jpg

You look under the cowl and you will see the rubber line connected to a nipple. Remove the line, Remove the big nut and washer. (DO NOT drop them behind the kick panel! If you do, they can short the Slave Cable outlet. You will have to remove the slave cable outlet to retrieve the dropped parts.)
Now, the bolt can be extracted from the inside to the outside. "Some" force may be necessary.
The tubing is standard brake tubing. You can drill out the broken stub and solder a new tube in place.

AB Linn has NOS Cad plated Windscreen Pivot Bolts (Holy) ones. He's in your neighborhood Salisbury, NC, ablinn@salisbury.net
Hope That Helps,

my thanks to both of your for your help and suggestions. I could never have hoped to restore my own truck without the help and occasional support of those who "have gone before me."

I'll check out both options.

NV

The tube is SUPPOSED to be free to pivot with the windshield frame. That is what the little metal clip is supposed to ensure. The pivot bolt should not turn when you tilt the frame.
As I recall on my truck when I got it, the tube was rotted to the pivot bolt. ( Had to drill it out!) The nut was rotted on the pivot bolt, but loose so it would turn. And the bolt was worn out in the bearing area. I fixed all that a few years back.

OK, I have a question. Keep in mind I am new to the M37, I have had many other military vehicles though. I bought a new set of bolts from Midwest "assuming" I would get what was needed to do the job. Found out otherwise. I got bolts, nothing more, just the bolts, no nuts, washers, tubes or anything. So............. What to I need beside the obvious nuts and washers? I have a bolt with a hole through it, does a metal line freefloat through that hole/ I saw a post here mentioning to solder in a tube.

That's the holy bolt I gave you right? The right angle tube should float in the interior of the bolt, a split clamp should attach the rubber tube to the steel tube. I forget the name of the clamp, it is spring loaded. I went to Lowes and got the correct nut.

No, You kept your holy bolt when I said I had gotten a new one, I should have gotten yous! If it just floats in there I can fab that up with no problem. It is in the back yard now and naturally it won't start because the carb screwed up. Worked great in and in front of the garage but in the back yard? NO. Oh well.