T case Leak at control levers.....?

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Nickathome
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T case Leak at control levers.....?

Post by Nickathome »

Guys;

After driving my truck on Saturday I noticed upon parking, that I had a new leak, this time it seems to be coming from one of the 4WD control levers. Any way to fix this? Is there a seal I can replace in this area?

This is the first time I ever noticed a leak in this area.
Cal_Gary
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Post by Cal_Gary »

Hi Nick,
According to my e-34P manual there are shifter shaft seals for each rod NSN 5330-291-9937. The 20P manual doesn't have the NSN but the exploded view of the transfer case is in both manuals. I've never changed one in my M37 but I used to change them in M35A2s during my Army MOS 63H days-changing them was a pain....
Gary
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1954 M37 W/W
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knattrass
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Which location?

Post by knattrass »

Funny you mention that... my son removed the control lever assembly from the side of the transmission and noticed oil dripping from one of the three bolt holes in the side of the case. After we paint them, we plan on using the hi-temp thread sealant on the bolts.

Unless of course you meant the shafts coming out of the t/c like mentioned below.
Nickathome
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Tcase levers.

Post by Nickathome »

Yes, from where I can tell, it seems the leak is coming from one of the T-Case control lever rods that protrudes from the T-case....Its not a big leak, drip spot about 3" in diameter before it stops....
MSeriesRebuild
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Re: Tcase levers.

Post by MSeriesRebuild »

Nickathome wrote:Yes, from where I can tell, it seems the leak is coming from one of the T-Case control lever rods that protrudes from the T-case....Its not a big leak, drip spot about 3" in diameter before it stops....
A leak here is typical, most likely the shift rail is rust pitted & has ruined the seal. We cure the problem once & for all by replacing the rails with custom machined stainless steel shafts & new seals. Remember a new seal is useless on a pitted shaft.
Charles Talbert
www.mseriesrebuild.com
g741
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Post by g741 »

Hi Nick: Also remember, as Mr. Talbert notes, pitted shafts will ruin the seals quickly. AND to change them you will have to completely remove the transfer case (all 200 pounds of it) and then go through however much dissassembly it takes to pull the shifter shafts. Then, you can easily remove the two little seals. Also, as Mr. Talbert notes, it is best to change the shift rails as they are likely rusted.

To drop the transfer case, the rear cross member that it sits on is bolted to the frame so it can be lowered. Of course, all three drive lines have to be disconnected also. Remove the bolts from the two front mounts, get a gorilla under the truck to catch the transfer case, (or a GOOD transmission jack, and pull it back a little and drop it. Coming out you can probably just drop it onto an old tire or something to cushion it. Going back, you need the Gorilla.
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