Some thoughts on "Upgrades"
Posted: Tue May 16, 2017 10:15 am
I spent the last three weeks doing a complete rewire of a customer truck. (A 1952 M37) The fellow isn't at all interested in the m37 as a piece of history. It is just a toy. Because he perceived issues with the stock truck, it was too hard to drive, he spent a LOT of money on modifications.
He put a dual circuit power brake master cylinder under the running board to the stock brakes. No more going in water or mud for him! They added a 12V electric vacuum booster to it instead of tying into the engine. Also under the running board and with no filter. (And a rats nest of poorly done wiring center tapped off the batteries.) The reduction of brake effort is minimal compared to a well adjusted set of stock brakes.
He added the power steering kit that is ever so popular and available. It really makes steering easy. The pump mount works well. The plumbing is in the way in the engine compartment and the extra tension on the belt has eaten his water pump bearings. The angle of the Pitman arm to the idler arm is worrisome to me as is the amount of angularity in all the u-joints. I really don't like the loss of the horn button. But, I'll say it again. It REALLY steers easily.
That said. I may use the mount he has and the Ford pump. I've already had my waterpump modified to bearings instead of bushings so it shouldn't be an issue. I will adapt a Ford style servo and cylinder to the tie rod for steering. That will retain the original box and column and also be a few minute uninstall if needed or desired with no permanent modification to the truck. No cutting or welding.
He replaced the manual trans with a Turbo 400. That was mistake 1. he really needed to have put an overdrive trans in it.
The amount of cutting and fab work was done nicely. but was a lot of irreversible fabrication. The moving of the NP200 back, the shortening and lengthening of drive shafts. The adapter mount fabricated looks great. The front drive shaft hits it in intown driving. Something is going to break. Soon.
Also, they removed the clutch pedal and linkage, but the shaft is still there for the brake pivot. There is NOTHING keeping that shaft in place. He is going to have to have his fab shop pin it in place!
They couldn't use the original starter so put in a 12V reduction starter. On 24Volt and wired from hell. It was causing a lot of issues.
The Generator was removed and a Delco 10SI 24V alternator was installed. The charge wire ran all the way to the battery box. Tied to the fuel lines. Instead of modifying the mount, They used a grinder and "Modified" the alternator housing! A lot.
The regulator was left as a power junction box.
When it became obvious that I wasn't going to be able to keep it 24V, he allowed me to take it to 12Volt to solve the issues.
I bought a 12V 10SI alternator and swapped the innards with the 24V modified one. Ran the charge wire to the starter terminal where it belongs. Removed the regulator and mount. Put the fuel filter on the firewall. Rewired the entire truck with a VWM harness, added turn signals. Removed about 40' of wiring from the starter ckt. Re ran the brake booster wiring. Wired the dash all to stock. Now, to keep his original Douglas gauges and senders I added a 15 amp 12v to 24v buck box. This also provides 24V for the heater as it would have been difficult to replace that motor. If you put a Douglas shell OVER a Packard end, it works and is as waterproof as the normal Douglas connection!
The oddest thing was the oil sender attached to the drain of the filter canister! It is moved back to its correct location. Swapped out all the bulbs and the job is done.
Those upgrades on his truck only added about 35 hours to the job of rewiring.
I told him I was done with his truck for a while. There are other things to be done, but we will address them in the fall when it cools off.
(Rant over)
He put a dual circuit power brake master cylinder under the running board to the stock brakes. No more going in water or mud for him! They added a 12V electric vacuum booster to it instead of tying into the engine. Also under the running board and with no filter. (And a rats nest of poorly done wiring center tapped off the batteries.) The reduction of brake effort is minimal compared to a well adjusted set of stock brakes.
He added the power steering kit that is ever so popular and available. It really makes steering easy. The pump mount works well. The plumbing is in the way in the engine compartment and the extra tension on the belt has eaten his water pump bearings. The angle of the Pitman arm to the idler arm is worrisome to me as is the amount of angularity in all the u-joints. I really don't like the loss of the horn button. But, I'll say it again. It REALLY steers easily.
That said. I may use the mount he has and the Ford pump. I've already had my waterpump modified to bearings instead of bushings so it shouldn't be an issue. I will adapt a Ford style servo and cylinder to the tie rod for steering. That will retain the original box and column and also be a few minute uninstall if needed or desired with no permanent modification to the truck. No cutting or welding.
He replaced the manual trans with a Turbo 400. That was mistake 1. he really needed to have put an overdrive trans in it.
The amount of cutting and fab work was done nicely. but was a lot of irreversible fabrication. The moving of the NP200 back, the shortening and lengthening of drive shafts. The adapter mount fabricated looks great. The front drive shaft hits it in intown driving. Something is going to break. Soon.
Also, they removed the clutch pedal and linkage, but the shaft is still there for the brake pivot. There is NOTHING keeping that shaft in place. He is going to have to have his fab shop pin it in place!
They couldn't use the original starter so put in a 12V reduction starter. On 24Volt and wired from hell. It was causing a lot of issues.
The Generator was removed and a Delco 10SI 24V alternator was installed. The charge wire ran all the way to the battery box. Tied to the fuel lines. Instead of modifying the mount, They used a grinder and "Modified" the alternator housing! A lot.
The regulator was left as a power junction box.
When it became obvious that I wasn't going to be able to keep it 24V, he allowed me to take it to 12Volt to solve the issues.
I bought a 12V 10SI alternator and swapped the innards with the 24V modified one. Ran the charge wire to the starter terminal where it belongs. Removed the regulator and mount. Put the fuel filter on the firewall. Rewired the entire truck with a VWM harness, added turn signals. Removed about 40' of wiring from the starter ckt. Re ran the brake booster wiring. Wired the dash all to stock. Now, to keep his original Douglas gauges and senders I added a 15 amp 12v to 24v buck box. This also provides 24V for the heater as it would have been difficult to replace that motor. If you put a Douglas shell OVER a Packard end, it works and is as waterproof as the normal Douglas connection!
The oddest thing was the oil sender attached to the drain of the filter canister! It is moved back to its correct location. Swapped out all the bulbs and the job is done.
Those upgrades on his truck only added about 35 hours to the job of rewiring.
I told him I was done with his truck for a while. There are other things to be done, but we will address them in the fall when it cools off.
(Rant over)