g741.org

Yes, the cross member is tight especially with the 1.5" od DOM. The 4" drop pitman arrived today. Tomorrow I will see how it looks installed and take some pics.

Over the weekend I probably put several hundred miles on this thing. All I can say is, it performed flawlessly, cruised 70 MPH with no issues, handles, and stops nice. Of all the stuff I own, I do love driving this thing the most.

http://g741.org/photogallery/main.php?g ... ewsIndex=1

57hemicuda, my 383 seems to be sitting ok. I expect the driver's side exhaust will be tough to get past the pto shaft. Any suggestions on changing where it sits before I make it permanent? Thanks.

With the center dump truck manifolds, their is not a terrible amount of wiggle room as to where the engine sets side to side. I always look at it as, its easier to move the PTO shaft with pillow blocks etc., then put the engine in the wrong place. My exhaust ended up coming out of the manifold at a severe angle to clear the front driveshaft on the passenger side. Normal stuff in custom car building.

Can't win with manifolds. The C body manifolds are smaller and leave more width room, but point the exhaust at the frame.

I like the look your M has.

Bert

I think the engine fits like it belongs there

Love this build. I use it as "fuel" for my own build. Between this build, and several others, I've been able to solve most of my issues before it gets too expensive.

I'm in the middle of a 440/np435/203,205 doubler/ full width HP D60 restomod and this has been a great source.

http://g741.org/photogallery/main.php?g ... ewsIndex=1

The engine is in for the last time. Now to wire, hoses, drop pedals...

Dodge truck bb dipstick tubes are available online for $50. Or you could get a 30" length of flared 3/8" brake line and cut it down to 25.75" oal, bent it such that it has about a 45 degree upward angle until passing the manifold downpipe, and then do a quick bend upward and outward. Making your own tube is uncomplicated and a quick way to save $.

Thanks to Ramcharger Forum for posting these details and some pics.

https://57hemicuda.smugmug.com/Cars/PW/i-s7fRnX8


Couldn't figure out how to post a video on here, so click the link, and then click on the video to watch a very entertaining M37 doing a smoky burnout video. Still makes me laugh, 3 tons of fun

Not much new on my build - added a few pics in the gallery. I just got some Parts Mike offset tie rod ends in an attempt to avoid cutting the cross member. Right now the drag link hits the cross member when the wheel is fully turned. I could move the reversed 78 Bronco steering box back 1.5" so the drag link clears the cross member, but that would cause the steering box to be far less supported by the cross member. I will check this weekend.

http://www.partsmike.com/index.php?sear ... D=name_asc

Top drawer work.
Just beautiful

57hemicuda wrote:https://57hemicuda.smugmug.com/Cars/PW/i-s7fRnX8


Couldn't figure out how to post a video on here, so click the link, and then click on the video to watch a very entertaining M37 doing a smoky burnout video. Still makes me laugh, 3 tons of fun

Don't see that everyday!

You were talking about cooling issues and I noticed that your entire fan is enclosed in the shroud. I was always taught that the perfect shroud placement has half the fan blade exposed since the fan expels air both back and out at the back edge of the fan. I have had two vehicles that I have changed the shrouds on to expose half the blade and on both the temps dropped drastically. Just something to think about. This was taught to me by an old time tin knocker/ hot rodder who could build a build a beautiful formed shroud in an hour all the while BSing with the guys in the shop. LOL. Mine never looked that good.