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SC M37

Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 5:02 pm
by sturmtyger380
Okay my 2015 commitment was to start on the M37 project. I have been cleaning out a bay of the shop and had this rim that was lying around.

So I mounted one of my tires on it. Well its a start. :roll:


Tube and flap in.

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Tire placed on the rim.

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Stomped the lock ring down and confirmed it is in the grove.

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Chained up ready to inflate.

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All inflated and now at 40 psi.

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Primed the lock ring and wheel.

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Re: SC M37

Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 7:27 pm
by m-37Bruce
Looking good, amazing what happens with no planning!

Re: SC M37

Posted: Wed Feb 04, 2015 9:42 am
by sturmtyger380
I got the spare transmission I have out and need to replace the input shaft as it has gotten rusty.

So since I will swap this one into the truck someday I can say I started? :)

Tool I made to pull the bearing and input shaft.

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The tool worked well.
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Looks like time for a sleeve.

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Alan

Re: SC M37

Posted: Wed Feb 04, 2015 12:16 pm
by Elwood
Creative work on the main bearing removal tool. 8)

I've been waiting on my machinist to make one as shown in the TM 9-8031-2 manual. If I can dig up a damaged bearing retaining nut (the left hand threads and the lack of brass drifts by previous owners seems to result in more than a few with munged up flats), maybe I'll weld it to a square plate with a hole in the center, tap a couple of holes on the sides, and have my own tool.

Re: SC M37

Posted: Wed Feb 04, 2015 12:56 pm
by T. Highway
Alan,

That's the way to adapt and overcome the bearing removal. Nice job!

Bert

Re: SC M37

Posted: Wed Feb 04, 2015 4:43 pm
by sturmtyger380
You don't have to tap holes in the plate just weld some nuts over holes in the plate.

I should have made it wider as I had to remove the snap ring on the bearing to allow it to push on the housing. Was just a millimeter off on each side, dang it.

Alan

Re: SC M37

Posted: Sat Feb 14, 2015 5:09 pm
by sturmtyger380
I decided to make my own reverse idler shaft puller.

Here is what I started with. You can see the original bolt and metal plate that holds the shaft in.

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First step is the file the grade 8 washer to match the M37 metal piece and check to see that it fits in the slot on the shaft.

Then weld it to the one inch iron gas pipe.

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Then you have to grind off most of the washer down to the pipe. You might need to weld again after that.

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Now you have to grind off the back of the pipe so that the flange will slip into the reverse idler shaft slot.

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A 5/8 inch bolt fit perfectly inside the pipe.

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Now weld it in place.

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Now weld a grade 8 5/8 washer to the other end of the pipe and you have a new tool. 8)

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In action.

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Next up is to make a tool to drop in behind the counter shaft to allow the front bearing to be pushed out.

Re: SC M37

Posted: Mon Feb 16, 2015 5:26 am
by T. Highway
Very nice job.

Bert

Re: SC M37

Posted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 5:20 pm
by sturmtyger380
Here is the start for the Cluster Gear Bearing tool.

The bottom of the MAP gas canister matches the size of the bearing.

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After cutting out the circle I painted a spare Cluster Gear end and outlined the shaft.

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Now the job was to cut out the middle.

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Checking the fit.

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Ready weld the tab on.

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Finished tool

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In action.

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Re: SC M37

Posted: Thu Feb 26, 2015 5:11 am
by T. Highway
That looks like it worked out well.

Bert

Re: SC M37

Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2015 4:35 pm
by sturmtyger380
The last two weeks I spent putting it back together

All the Parts laid out.

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New Speedy Sleeve for the output flange:

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Starting to put it back together.

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Putting the lock ring on the input shaft the bearing kept popping out.
So I used a flat piece of metal to hold it in place.

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Nice!

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Alan

Re: SC M37

Posted: Tue Apr 21, 2015 4:07 am
by T. Highway
Alan,

Did you reuse the old top cover or get a new one?

The reason that I ask is, if you reused the old cover was the pin tight for the shifter or did you have to repair it?

Bert

Re: SC M37

Posted: Tue Apr 21, 2015 6:20 am
by sturmtyger380
Since I was rebuilding Chris's transmission at the same time he was nice enough to scrounge two NOS shift towers. So they are nice and tight.

In fact when I was trying to get the angle of the shifter stub right when in neutral I went out to my truck that still has the original transmission in it and moved the shifter around.

Geeze that old shifter tower must be really shot. I could see the pin holding the ball wallowing all around and really loose. :shock:

Re: SC M37

Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2016 5:45 pm
by sturmtyger380
Its been awhile since I posted anything about my truck. I have been taking things off of the engine and repairing as I go.

The starter on this truck was working but when I took it apart to replace the bendix the end plate that holds the brushes was horrible. I am on track to rebuild the starter.

While waiting on parts I decided to pull the head on the truck and see how bad things were as the truck has low compression. I didn't find any bad wear and other than the carbon at the top of the cylinder walls I can't feel any ridge. You guys take a look and see if you think I can get away with a ball hone job and new standard rings.

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The Dark streaks on this image are from some oil that I sprayed to protect the walls.

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Re: SC M37

Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2016 10:55 am
by sturmtyger380
My 1953 M37 I am sure went though the rebuild program and was still in the Army up to the 1970's. The engine has a rebuild tag on it from 1973.

The housing looks green but I see black paint peaking out in spots.

I am trying to figure out what the label on the oil filter housing was as it does not look like the Fram ones I have seen. Any idea what the label on the side and top should say? Brand?

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Top

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Alan