g741.org

almost a year of other projects and im back on the 265 truck. more surprising is that photobucket fixed all the links they were holding for ransom.

over the last few days ive been working on installing the ARB air locker with some original chrysler 4.89s.

followed the long procedure in the canadian eme manual got to the point were im to find the place of least backlash and bang! the fins on the arb carrier collided with some casting in the chunk. has anyone had to make room for the arb carrier ?

I think this is the first time I've seen any of those photos-great work and progressing well! (I don't run lockers so I can't help you there).
Gary

thanks for the kind words Gary.

I started on the second locker today. swapped the ring gear, installed the seals, pressed the bearings. dropped it in got the caps on gave it a spin and bang.

guess I 'll be hitting that one with a file as well.

diffs complete and ready for install after much filling.

keeping with the theme of file and fit I moved onto the steering.

I took a stock column cut off the worm and tossed the box. I then took the stock inner and outer shaft and cut them to length... after much measuring and head scratching. I found two pieces of dom pipe that fit snugly together and allowed me to transition from the OD of the outer shaft to the new lower bearing. the pipe was too small to fit the bearing so I used a tailpipe expander to stretch the pipe to match the od of the lower bearing. with the nominal od of the stock inner steering shaft I needed to shave a few thousands off. with the aid of a couple v blocks, a drill and a file I managed to get it turned down. now the fun bit..... I used the same file to gently cut a keyway to affix the 1000series ujoint to the stock inner.

Nice work! Your fabrication skills are much better than mine-looks like a well-planned project!
Gary

looks like I was off on the math.... with the longer pitman arm on the Saginaw I now have a race truck with a quick ratio box with 3 turns lock to lock.

good mod for anyone doing rallyX
https://www.facebook.com/powerwagonadve ... 973637129/

That ought to be interesting driving on the road! Especially with the big tires and usually tight (yea right!) steering assemblies of an M37.

Nice pictures-thanks for sharing!
Gary

I really like the black and white action photo with the dirt flying.

Bert

RMS , where did you get those hood hinges? Are they modified oem?

the PO modified the hood hinges along with many other gussets found throughout the truck .


I do like the look of them but I question the practicality of the mods in high articulated scenarios. with the stock floppy contorting setup the hood moves a couple inches away from the corner brackets(on the horse shoe). I even think "the flex" has popped a hood latch once or twice. will the gussets and tighter hinge pins reek havoc on the cowl and corner brackets ? ....that's yet to be seen. however they do give good grip if you find yourself walking on the cowl.

another mod done by the PO that I found very handy was replacing the bottom bolt on the "spinals to knuckles" with a stud. it was the fasted front diff swap ever! no fighting with the hub assembly trying to catch a thread. just lined up the..... tracta? Burfield? joints @ 12'o clock and slid the hub assembly onto the stud till it was tight to the knuckle. then I calmly installed the four bolts and one nut. it took all of 5min a side once the diff was in.

time to start thinking about brakes.....

hmmm the stock 1 1/4 single line master is $140ca for the cardon 1040544 and the RAYBESTOS MC785 is a whopping $290ca. but those options only give me a single line system.....

the dual chevy 1 5/16 option is interesting but it dose not have the same area to push on.....

1 5/16 diameter = 8.72883cm2 1.352in2

1 1/4 diameter = 7.9173cm2 1.227in2

2x 7/8 diameter = 7.75896cm2 1.202in2

my math shows that using two 7/8th masters will get me closer to the stock master.

I was thinking to use two remote res wilwood masters #260-10374($100ca) and a balance bar($80ca) for proportioning now I would need some inline residual pressure valves (of what weight ? 10psi ?) then figure out mounting and a connection to the stock pedal.


what are your thoughts ?

You have definitely thought this through. The 1/16 difference in master cylinder size will cause a bit higher pedal pressure but that could be offset if you can find a way to lengthen the long side of the pedal arm at the pivot point or shorten the short side. This will give more leverage from the pedal with the same force applied to the pedal. It will also bring the length of pedal movement back to stock. BUT, If you are going to all this trouble why don't you convert to disc brakes? Then a stock disc brake master works just fine.

discs would be nice but after shipping and exchange Im looking at well over $900 per axle without calipers . so thats out ......and I have like 5 sets of drums to burn through.

I had thought of changing the pedal ratio to get more push on the 1 5/16th chevy master but with the pedal being forged. I dont have the process down for welding such material.