Rough start after prolonged non-use

[jbxx]

I'm going to give this question another try, I posted the same
a year or two ago.
I have a professionally rebuilt engine.
It runs great after running for a while.
I am only able to get to the vehicle about once every three weeks.
After not being started for that period it starts REAL rough.
After initial warm up it evens out and runs perfect.
Restarts are also fine.
Here is where it may get a bit wierd, it puts out a cloud of something.
I call it a cloud because it doesn't smell like oil and is not blueish.
It's kind of white and I can make out the resolution of the smoke to actually see particles/ vapor.
Gas is 1/2 fresh each time and it doesn't make any difference even if the gas is brand new.
Electronics have been reworked to Pertonix (slight improvement).
Oil at change seems to get dirty kind of quickly.
Any thoughts, no matter how strange are greatly appreciated.
Runs real strong after evening out and compression is fine
(after warming up).
J.B.
Any thought

[knattrass]

Can't offer any help -other than to say mine did the same thing - odd white smoke. No foam in the oil, no smell of anti-freeze. Would puff when you would unload the engine(push clutch in with higher revs). Put hands over exhaust and you could see the particles hit your skin. We ended up taking the head off (for other reasons) and found huge flakes of carbon build up - I mean HUGE - like corn flakes. Intake/exhaust manifold coated to the point of chipping. We also saw a trace of carbon starting to cross between the #1 & #2 cylinder. We had the head checked and it was slightly warped .003". We had all 3 parts baked and machined flat. We just finished scrapping, wire wheel, and scrubbing the pistons tops, valves, block to remove carbon. Stuck like concrete.

[Carter]

It sounds like one or more intake valves are sticking at start up and after warm up they gradually free themselves and function normally. The vapor is possibly an unburned fuel mist mixed with any moisture, oil and carbon present in the combustion chamber.

[gwalker]

you may be getting a coolant leak jus starting (or very smal)internally watch the coolant level real close to see if its going down at all.

[MSeriesRebuild]

I'm inclined to agree with Carter, sounds like valves sticking. You are really pressing your luck with 3 month old fuel in the tank. No doubt that sticky residue is starting to build up on the valve stems & before you know it, intake valves will be sticking in their guides to the point of no return. I would strongly suggest draining all old gas, put in fresh & run the system completely dry leaving no fuel in the tank to age & cause problems. You are most likely right at the edge of having to pull the head & all the valves to do a major clean up.

[jbxx]

Yes, I was thinking valves also.
That's three WEEKS not MONTHS.
and 1/2 new gas each time.
Been this way since the rebuild.
I'm thinking an intake valve too tight in the guide?
Or just build up from gas cruddage?
Both?
Thanks!

[KenInGA]

Dunno. I know mine blows a tad bit of smoke when I crank it, but its just a bit of oil. Mine runs somewhat rough when its cold, thats the nature of these big ole cast iron pigs. Maybe a valve adjustment is in order?

[Carter]

" I'm thinking an intake valve too tight in the guide?
Or just build up from gas cruddage? "

I doubt its guides , they are reamed to size if to tight when the engine is assembled if done by a good Dodge mechanic.

Gas at fault? Probably, these engines were designed to use leaded fuel not the crap sold now for an arm and a leg or two, Lead was used to lubricate the valves and guides and to aid in combustion. I use a lead substitute fuel additive to help keep the valves from getting stuck and rusting up. I also add a pint of Diesel fuel every 4th. tank of gas I get, don't know if it helps but the valves don't stick when the engine hadn't been run for a while.

[MSeriesRebuild]

If the guides weren't reamed correctly, valves would have stuck from the get go. As the engine temp builds up they would seize. Since your problem is as soon as it starts rather than after warm up, that symptom has residue from aged fuel written all over it.

[ZGjethro]

wrote:
> I was going through old entries and found this one. One of the last posters mentioned running some diesel through every few tanks. I do not know if this is a good idea or not. I have some month old two stroke gas mixed at 80:1 (Amsoil saber) that I need to get rid of. Would this help the valve guides? The actual amount of oil added to a 25 gallon tank would be next to nothing. I usually burn in up in my 1999 Toyota 4runner but I figure the more basic 230 chrysler motor might tolerate it better.

[hbb]

wrote:
> wrote:
> >
> I have the same thoughts that Charles has mentioned and I will add you might try
> adding techroline to the gas, you can get it at any parts store or GM top engine
> cleaner and draw it in through the intake manifold then when the can is almost empty
> let the engine die and leave it over nite the start and bring to op temp this will
> clean carbon and varnish which might help but as Charles had said it will not get any
> better if you do nothing .

[cuz]

wrote:
> If you are in a 10 % ethanol area then the ethanol is the crud builder. It's the current curse and more of a problem then the lack of lead. If you can find a source of ethanol free gas try that for a few months and you'll see the issues go away. If you feel you need some lead then mix in some aviation gas 100LL at about 10 or 15 %. She'll run like a top.