Walter

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tbone1004
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Re: Walter

Post by tbone1004 »

no worries about the discussion, just been a bit busy to respond at length.

dISA isn't used in automotive, they use an SAE standard. I can't remember which one off the top of my head or what temperature it is at, but it is well above 40F. If you think about it 40f is actually really really warm for an airplane and represents a really low altitude. fwiw 20F is about 10,000ft. I would imagine cars are tested for cooling ability somewhere around 100-120F, if not higher.

All of this being said, I might pull the radiator and bring it to work and see what the pressure differential is across the fins and that will determine what cfm I need out of the fan. Easier solution is probably just going to be leaving provisions for mechanical, installing an electric and if it works, great, if it doesn't, I'll just go back.
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Re: Walter

Post by JimC »

Tbone,second paragraph sounds like a great solution to me. I'd really like to know what differential you get across the fins.

Re temperature, I didn't say or imply a temperature of 40F, I said a dISA (delta ISA) of +40F. That is ISA +40. At sea level, that would be 59+40=99F, commonly called a 100 degree day. At altitude, it means the standard temperature for the specified altitude plus 40 degrees Fahrenheit. For example, at 8500 feet MSL (near optimal cruising altitude for a normally aspirated aircraft at 75% power), +40 dISA is 28.69+40=68.69 degrees F, which is quite warm for that altitude.
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Re: Walter

Post by tbone1004 »

ahh, sorry, long night, not enough sleep, yeah that delta makes sense now. Was a long week studying thermal efficiency of different fabric to help Toyota solve the recent failure of their heat seaters... I'll call up Aberdeen on Monday and see what they use when they wrote protocals for the MATV
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Re: Walter

Post by tbone1004 »

Image

Engine is onto the stand. Oil drained. Black but nothing nasty looking in it, filter didn't want to come off though and dented with the wrench. It's off and looked fine, just a dry gasket I guess. Water pump obviously needs replacing looking at the pulley but I think the whole front accessory set is going to come off and I'll just expedite the serpentine conversion. The hunt for a transmission continues...
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Re: Walter

Post by JimC »

What displacement is this engine?
tbone1004
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Re: Walter

Post by tbone1004 »

it's a 351W but it's been bored 30 over so it's now 357ci give or take
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Re: Walter

Post by JimC »

I've been thinking about putting a 408W in my daughter's 67 Mustang. Let me know how you like the 357 when you get it going.
Thanks
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Re: Walter

Post by Master Yota »

JimC wrote:I've been thinking about putting a 408W in my daughter's 67 Mustang. Let me know how you like the 357 when you get it going.
Thanks
Funny - I picked up up a 351W last year to go into my '68 Mustang... However I'm going to go with the 390ci stroker, as its fewer parts to buy and no machine work. IMS the 390 setup uses an aftermarket stroker crank, 5.0L rods, and stock 351 pistons. Seems like a no-brainer for an engine build... :mrgreen:
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Re: Walter

Post by JimC »

Kinda does, doesn't it.
And there are 390 fender medallions available too.
What's the compression ratio for that combo?
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Re: Walter

Post by Master Yota »

JimC wrote:Kinda does, doesn't it.
And there are 390 fender medallions available too.
What's the compression ratio for that combo?
Thanks
I don't know yet, as that'll depend more on what style of piston I end up using and if I decide to stick with warmed over stock-ish head or go aftermarket. My preference would be to shoot for a fuel friendly 9.5:1 or so. With premium gas being over $6.00 bucks a gallon, I'd like to be able to run it on regular gas, so that I can still afford to drive it.. :roll:
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Re: Walter

Post by tbone1004 »

got the engine mostly pulled apart tonight. One valve cover is being stubborn with the cork and I don't have a harmonic balance puller to pull that out to get the timing chain off, but the intake, oil pan, and all accessory brackets are off. I think there is only one bolt stuck in the block, which sucks completely. I'm going to Harbor Freight to grab a set of lefty drill bits and will put the heat gun up to it before hand. Bolt hole has seafoam deep creep in there right now and will reapply in the morning. Will grab the harmonic balance puller while I'm in town.

Went to a local junkyard today and will hopefully be pulling the full serpentine setup for this thing on Monday which would be sweet. Installation will all be dependent on whether or not I can get this damn bolt out. Wish me luck, I'll need it. I'm thinking about using the regular drill for the pilot and then use the impact drill for the next sizes up to see if that will jolt it loose
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Re: Walter

Post by JimC »

Good luck, Tbone.

Ray, let's start a new thread for 351 mods.
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Re: Walter

Post by tbone1004 »

got the harmonic balancer, timing cover, valve cover, and the one sheared bolt out, so that's good. Will get some pics up, but now off to watch my QB dominate Mr. Manning
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Re: Walter

Post by Master Yota »

After you've determined if the serpentine system will fit, one of the best upgrades to your cooling system will be an aftermarket high performance water pump. It'll move more volume of water, faster, and with higher block pressures. Higher pressure and more flow naturally means that you'll get more surface contact between the coolant and the water passages of the engine. An additive like "water-wetter" or "minus 40" will also help immensely. With the semi-limited rad size anything that can be done to facilitate better cooling is worthwhile.

I suggest you purchase the water pump after you know if you can use the serp. system or not, as the pumps will be different between the regular v belt drive, and the serpentine drive(some serpentines drive the pump in the opposite direction, plus the snout is probably different)... No point in spending money twice... :wink:
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Re: Walter

Post by tbone1004 »

found a transmission! Got a zf5 with an np208 for $200 in good shape, going to pick it up tomorrow. Unfortunately it is a 4x4 but I couldn't pass it up for the price. I am going to have to do some serious measuring, but I really wish I could just find the ebrake assembly from the f450 for cheap. They want like $800 for it on ebay and it doesn't appear there are any other options to bolt an output flange onto the back of a 4x4 transmission. Seems I'm the only person out there wanting to convert a 4wd to a 2wd transmission. Will post some pictures later in the week since I'm in Mass helping my grandmother out and it will be living in the back of my jeep until Wednesday when I get back to Maine.
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