g741.org

Basically I like to original 12 valve. They had better mileage and were more reliable. Also I'm glad I did because the front axle was 3" back too far. I made a spacer block under the spring that alowed me to move the axle forward on the spring. Much easier that the coil spring front end. I was surprising how smooth it does ride though. By leaving the motor in its original position saved me lots of time fitting it under the hood to where I wanted it. Oh ya this 12 valve has the option of a manual shut off on the pump so don't need any battery power to run the engine. (other than the starter)

Are yor running a stock M37 wheelbase now? (112")

I made it 2" longer than stock because I wasn't sure if I was going to run stacks or not, so there is a larger gap between the can and the box as shown in one of my pictures in this thread.

Love the build! Do you have any updated photos/ videos?

I'll post more updates and pictures as soon as I am able to. I had open heart surgery done on Oct 31, so I am not healed good enough to work on it yet. But I go to the shop and look at it almost every day.

Rest is the most important thing for you right now. Hope you feel better soon! Thanks for the update.

retiredguy wrote:I'll post more updates and pictures as soon as I am able to. I had open heart surgery done on Oct 31, so I am not healed good enough to work on it yet. But I go to the shop and look at it almost every day.

Wow man heal up and rest! Don't push it!

Which type of rust preventative did you use for the frame? I have had experience with Por 15 products before, with no issues. Also saw something around called "Rust Bullet." Not sure how good the stuff is, but claims to be a bit better than the Por15 coating.

I used POR15 on the frame. I used a brush on it and I was amazed on how it flowed in and the brush marks disapeared. I also used it on the diffs and fuel tank. The diffs and fuel tank I used gloss POR15, and the frame was semi gloss.

What is the condition of the inside of your hard top? Mine seems to be a little on the rough side. Think I might strip the interior sheet metal along with the fiberglass insulation, and them possibly either Rino Line or Por 15 the inside gloss white. Also like the idea of a textured powder coat finish. Do you have a pic of the hardtop mounted with new paint?

The inside is actually in very good condition, other than all the bolts broke off so I have a lot of drilling coming up. I am going to put the insulation back in and the steel headliner, which is on good conition too. The sliding back window has broken glass, so I have to get that replaced. I just don't know what I am going to do about the slider "fuzzies". I don't remember if replacement parts are available for that. I'll take some pics of the proceedure as I get the cab done.

So I am able to do some work again. I finished assembly of the left hand door with all the weather seals in place. Found out there isn't much ajustments for the windows so I guess I'll see how they fit once the cab roof is on. I also posted some pictures of the door limiter straps I set up for it. The straps are out of a Jeep TJ. the brackets I made up from scratch. Now on to the right hand door.

Truck is really looking good! DId you end up getting the weather seals from Memphis Equipment?

In the TM, it shows how to adjust the windows, rubber or wooden mallet a 2" X 4" as I recall?

This is how my door arm checks turned out for me.
http://www.g741.org/photogallery/main.php?g2_itemId=562

PWRWGN NJ wrote:Truck is really looking good! DId you end up getting the weather seals from Memphis Equipment?

I got the seals from MWM. All fit really nice.