Building a retro M37

[retiredguy]

Basically I like to original 12 valve. They had better mileage and were more reliable. Also I'm glad I did because the front axle was 3" back too far. I made a spacer block under the spring that alowed me to move the axle forward on the spring. Much easier that the coil spring front end. I was surprising how smooth it does ride though. By leaving the motor in its original position saved me lots of time fitting it under the hood to where I wanted it. Oh ya this 12 valve has the option of a manual shut off on the pump so don't need any battery power to run the engine. (other than the starter)

[PWRWGN NJ]

Are yor running a stock M37 wheelbase now? (112")

[retiredguy]

I made it 2" longer than stock because I wasn't sure if I was going to run stacks or not, so there is a larger gap between the can and the box as shown in one of my pictures in this thread.

[PWRWGN NJ]

Love the build! Do you have any updated photos/ videos?

[retiredguy]

I'll post more updates and pictures as soon as I am able to. I had open heart surgery done on Oct 31, so I am not healed good enough to work on it yet. But I go to the shop and look at it almost every day.

[PWRWGN NJ]

Rest is the most important thing for you right now. Hope you feel better soon! Thanks for the update.

[k8icu]

I'll post more updates and pictures as soon as I am able to. I had open heart surgery done on Oct 31, so I am not healed good enough to work on it yet. But I go to the shop and look at it almost every day.

Wow man heal up and rest! Don't push it!

[PWRWGN NJ]

Which type of rust preventative did you use for the frame? I have had experience with Por 15 products before, with no issues. Also saw something around called "Rust Bullet." Not sure how good the stuff is, but claims to be a bit better than the Por15 coating.

[retiredguy]

I used POR15 on the frame. I used a brush on it and I was amazed on how it flowed in and the brush marks disapeared. I also used it on the diffs and fuel tank. The diffs and fuel tank I used gloss POR15, and the frame was semi gloss.

[PWRWGN NJ]

What is the condition of the inside of your hard top? Mine seems to be a little on the rough side. Think I might strip the interior sheet metal along with the fiberglass insulation, and them possibly either Rino Line or Por 15 the inside gloss white. Also like the idea of a textured powder coat finish. Do you have a pic of the hardtop mounted with new paint?

[retiredguy]

The inside is actually in very good condition, other than all the bolts broke off so I have a lot of drilling coming up. I am going to put the insulation back in and the steel headliner, which is on good conition too. The sliding back window has broken glass, so I have to get that replaced. I just don't know what I am going to do about the slider "fuzzies". I don't remember if replacement parts are available for that. I'll take some pics of the proceedure as I get the cab done.

[retiredguy]

So I am able to do some work again. I finished assembly of the left hand door with all the weather seals in place. Found out there isn't much ajustments for the windows so I guess I'll see how they fit once the cab roof is on. I also posted some pictures of the door limiter straps I set up for it. The straps are out of a Jeep TJ. the brackets I made up from scratch. Now on to the right hand door.

[PWRWGN NJ]

Truck is really looking good! DId you end up getting the weather seals from Memphis Equipment?

[m-37Bruce]

In the TM, it shows how to adjust the windows, rubber or wooden mallet a 2" X 4" as I recall?

This is how my door arm checks turned out for me.
http://www.g741.org/photogallery/main.php?g2_itemId=562

[retiredguy]

Truck is really looking good! DId you end up getting the weather seals from Memphis Equipment?

I got the seals from MWM. All fit really nice.