g741.org

If you were to do it, what are your thoughts on this one?

http://www.warn.com/truck/winches/12.0-endurance.shtml

My apologies to the purists. I too would like to have an original but, my M37 is a 1954 WOW model. And, it just seems like a nice accessory to have on board.

Your thoughts?

Nice! I have a Warn 12K on my M. the trick was centering the fairlane and keeping the winch between the frame rails. If you do it with a well designed frame extension you could probably eliminate my challenge in trying to keep the M's front short.

Very nice, Will. Thanks!

I would use a Ramsey RE12000. No planetary gears for me, just worm and sector, so there's no way the load can back up on you. It's about the same price but it's sturdier than the one you are showing.

Just my 0.2

The Army switch to Milemarker hydrolic winches on the Hummer because of the heat problem on the Warn. Looks like Warn is addressing the issue with this modle. I like the idea of a hydro winch. The FMTVs are hydro also.

Milsurp wrote:If you were to do it, what are your thoughts on this one?

http://www.warn.com/truck/winches/12.0-endurance.shtml

My apologies to the purists. I too would like to have an original but, my M37 is a 1954 WOW model. And, it just seems like a nice accessory to have on board.

Your thoughts?

To each his own, but you ought to know the facts before you proceed. No electric winch will even come close to the performance of the original LU4. I have a prime example in the shop right now, a M715 brush fire truck. They were also originally equipped with the braden LU4 just like the M37's were. The Warn they have mounted is a 15,000 lb. model. Curiousity over took me, & no it won't pull anywhere near what the gear driven winch will without stalling. The trans had a good original PTO on it & the truck was a winch model originally. Literally all they needed was a winch & drive shaft, why anyone would trash that for an electric is beyond me. The LU4 would pull this thing inside out with the engine idling. Needless to say, I would spend my $$$ on an original set up. You couldn't give me a new electric if I had the choice of that or a gear driven unit. Being a purist has nothing to do with my comments, it's just that the better set up wins hands down.

I have a removeable 12K on mine.
I will be switching to a PTO driven hydraulic Mile Marker in the future
with the winch and hydraulics to be switchable to a plow.
Thats the plan at this point .
J.B.

MSeriesRebuild wrote:The LU4 would pull this thing inside out with the engine idling. Needless to say, I would spend my $$$ on an original set up. You couldn't give me a new electric if I had the choice of that or a gear driven unit. Being a purist has nothing to do with my comments, it's just that the better set up wins hands down.

Charles, let me pose this to you. What would be a rough estimate of cost to install the original style setup on a M37 WOW, versus the cost of the WARN or RAMSEY? I'd love to have the LU4 but, does it require a second mortgage on my home to have it done?
Thanks.

Milsurp wrote:

MSeriesRebuild wrote:The LU4 would pull this thing inside out with the engine idling. Needless to say, I would spend my $$$ on an original set up. You couldn't give me a new electric if I had the choice of that or a gear driven unit. Being a purist has nothing to do with my comments, it's just that the better set up wins hands down.

Charles, let me pose this to you. What would be a rough estimate of cost to install the original style setup on a M37 WOW, versus the cost of the WARN or RAMSEY? I'd love to have the LU4 but, does it require a second mortgage on my home to have it done?
Thanks.

You could certainly do the installation yourself if you had all the components, that's easy. Cost varies depending on where you can find all the stuff. You'll just have to do some searching & pricing. M37 winch set ups are in demand items & always will be, so there is no need to expect bargain prices. I would say from the $1,200-$2,000 range for decent condition stuff. A new first class US made cable, leader chain, hook, & proper connecting harware will go $600. This is for a certified assembly that will meet OSHA safety regulations, you can go for less, but it won't be legal to use it, so if a cable related legal issue were to come up, having a certified rig is the only way to stay out of big trouble in the event a law suit came up.

I have to agree with Charles...with one minor exception. As long as the engine is running, the original setup can't be beat. If you suffered an engine failure, the electric winch would work...as long as the batteries held up.

...as long as the batteries held up.

Which would not be long at all, drawing 316 amps with an 8000 lb. line load, which is slightly heavier than the weight of a loaded M37.

Lifer wrote:I have to agree with Charles...with one minor exception. As long as the engine is running, the original setup can't be beat. If you suffered an engine failure, the electric winch would work...as long as the batteries held up.

I wouldn't even consider the fact of engine failure. The fact is the battery would be dead so fast it wouldn't matter anyway. Batteries & charging are an issue with any high draw component. Put that kind of drain on batteries that are being charged by the stock 25 amp generator, you will still have a problem as that gen will never keep up with the demand. If you are figuring a 12 volt winch motor pulling off of 1 battery in a 24 volt system, you are sunk already. Even if you have a 12 volt system in your truck or the winch will have a 24 volt motor, either way you will need a very dependable HIGH amp output alternator. Bottom line is right here, if you are upgrading a stock electrical system to meet the demand plus the cost of a decent electric winch, you will have a major investment & still not a great winch system. I just don't see the justification anywhere in an electrical set up, especially when such a great mechanical system can be had at a comparable cost. The stock winch system, rebuilt, & installed correctly, being operated by a responsible, trained, non-abusive operator will last a lifetime +. Will be of much better service when needed also.

XM708 has some winch stuff listed for sale on the swap meet section of this site right now. Cost reasonable, check it out.

"A new first class US made cable, leader chain, hook, & proper connecting hardware will go $600. "

My gosh, Charles, I had no idea they were that expensive! Getting ready to buy one for an M37 I'm restoring and hate to spend that much for a winch that might get used once a year to pull the M37 out of a ditch. Are there any cheaper, reasonable, alternatives?

Dave

djester wrote:"A new first class US made cable, leader chain, hook, & proper connecting hardware will go $600. "

My gosh, Charles, I had no idea they were that expensive! Getting ready to buy one for an M37 I'm restoring and hate to spend that much for a winch that might get used once a year to pull the M37 out of a ditch. Are there any cheaper, reasonable, alternatives?

Dave

Sure there is imported cable that isn't flexible, will crush & damage easily under load, chain that will stretch & break, connecting hardware that is only rated to a test load of say 75% of the cable safe work load rating. Look, I'm sure you are familiar with "you get what you pay for", it applies here also. Even the junk is expensive these days. Cheaper, somewhat; reasonable, I guess you can decide that part. We install the best legal stuff we can, here it's 2 issues, a good set up the customer will appreciate for years to come & a cable assembly that comes with certification that it's been tested to hold a given load. This way both us & the customer are covered from a legal stand point if issues come up. This protects you, the owner, bystanders, etc. if you got drug into legal proceedings as a result of a cable or attaching hardware failure. Most folks aren't aware that there are guidelines governing the use of such items. It's against the law for us to install an uncertified assembly on a customers truck. If a customer specs a winch with no cable assembly, fine, we don't care if you put kite cord on it as long as the customer takes delivery of it while the drum is empty. We document with pictures & in writing with the owners signature that it left here with a bare drum. What we install is this: 175' of 1/2" diameter US made 6X37 wire rope with an independent wire rope center, a 5' length of 1/2" grade 100 alloy chain, a grade 100 sling hook with heavy duty safety latch that pins directly to the chain with an alloy pin that comes with the hook. The cable has a swaged on socket type end termination with a 1" diameter pin, a grade 100 alloy connecting link is used to connect the chain to the cable socket. The assembly is then tested at the cable suppliers test facility & certified, comes with a certificate stating the safe work load rating that we pass on to the owner. We also retain a copy of the certification. This cost us in the range of $585 including UPS delivery from Certex-Superior Rope & Sling located at Charlotte, NC. This is the best explanation I can give to you. You can make the call for your rig.