winch not working

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anthony manzella
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winch not working

Post by anthony manzella »

PTO is working but drum of winch is not turning. Can't rewind, cable extended, what to do in this situation? 8)
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flobble
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Post by flobble »

First, check to see if you sheared the shear pin, located by the u-joint going into the winch. Then make sure that the free-spooling lever is completely engaged. If it's not either of those, then you will have to dig deeper into the winch itself.

Good luck
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anthony manzella
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shear pin

Post by anthony manzella »

after getting it home and looking in my book I have found that at this point it's looking like the shear pin is the problem at this point, HOPEFULLY! :wink: HATE when things go Boom and don't have a clue' lession #1 don't go out without the book [TM 9-8030] 8) :lol:
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SHEAR PIN

Post by anthony manzella »

WHERE CAN I PICK ONE OR TWO UP AT . 8)
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Post by flobble »

I may get yelled at here, but I just used a 1/4" bolt, not any grade, that will give it the ability to be sheared if there is too much force on the driveshaft. Get one that is long enough to cut off the threaded portion, drill a 1/16" hole through both ends, and put lock wire through the holes to keep it from falling out. Prep a few and keep spares in the glove box. More importantly, look into why the shear pin broke in the first place, they shouldn't break under a normal load.
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Post by MSeriesRebuild »

The correct shear pin diameter is 5/16" A grade 2 (plain head bolt) is about the same hardness as an original shear pin. They will work just fine, you can drill & install a cotter key or you can use a bolt long enough to install 2 nuts jamb locked together. The nut method is easier. Be sure you use a bolt of the correct diameter, using one that is too small for the hole such as a 1/4" bolt will allow the yoke to have exccessive play on the worm shaft causing unnecssary wear on the pin, worm shaft, & the yoke.
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anthony manzella
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SHEAR PIN

Post by anthony manzella »

Charles You mention about a 5/16 grade 2 but not a length if I go with the 2 nuts what would the lenght be . :?
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Re: SHEAR PIN

Post by MSeriesRebuild »

anthony manzella wrote:Charles You mention about a 5/16 grade 2 but not a length if I go with the 2 nuts what would the lenght be . :?
If my memory is woking right today, I believe it's 2". It may not be working right today, so I'd better check one & get back.
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Re: SHEAR PIN

Post by MSeriesRebuild »

MSeriesRebuild wrote:
anthony manzella wrote:Charles You mention about a 5/16 grade 2 but not a length if I go with the 2 nuts what would the lenght be . :?
If my memory is woking right today, I believe it's 2". It may not be working right today, so I'd better check one & get back.
Correct length is 2".
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Post by flobble »

Your absolutely right Charles, when I posted the diameter I was going by memory( a bad thing!) I went out and measured mine and guess what...it's 5/16"!
anthony manzella
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SHEAR PIN

Post by anthony manzella »

flobble wrote:Your absolutely right Charles, when I posted the diameter I was going by memory( a bad thing!) I went out and measured mine and guess what...it's 5/16"!
THANK YOU ! CHARLES & flobble, will be going to local Hardware Store , for a2" #2 5/16 bolt with 2 nuts x 2 of every thing just in case. 8) :lol:
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BOLT / SLIP PIN

Post by anthony manzella »

Charles as for the right length for the bolt at least for my in put shaft to the P T O is 2 1/2 " 2" only gets you to the front door and no way to put a double nut on it and yes we are good with the 5/16" , I did put only one Ni lock nut on but have 2 or 3 extra and 1 extra bolt just to C. Y. A. or cover my booty ! :lol: :wink:
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Re: BOLT / SLIP PIN

Post by MSeriesRebuild »

anthony manzella wrote:Charles as for the right length for the bolt at least for my in put shaft to the P T O is 2 1/2 " 2" only gets you to the front door and no way to put a double nut on it and yes we are good with the 5/16" , I did put only one Ni lock nut on but have 2 or 3 extra and 1 extra bolt just to C. Y. A. or cover my booty ! :lol: :wink:
You may be correct, the one I looked at was off a truck in the shop, but it has a non-original drive shaft & yoke on it. A 2" would work fine with it, may well be some dimensional differences between it and an original yoke. If yours has original stuff in place, your measurements should be correct.
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Winch

Post by anthony manzella »

Got everything back together but the drum does not turn by just pulling cable out , is this because the break band is not adjusted correctly, also the engage and disengage lever is not working , can reel in or out by manuel working the p t o , but not using the front lever for control, was working before . :cry: :?
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Re: Winch

Post by MSeriesRebuild »

anthony manzella wrote:Got everything back together but the drum does not turn by just pulling cable out , is this because the break band is not adjusted correctly, also the engage and disengage lever is not working , can reel in or out by manuel working the p t o , but not using the front lever for control, was working before . :cry: :?
No adjustable brake is on the drum, only on the worm shaft. I'm not following your question, the lever on the left side of the winch as viewed from in front of the truck only engages & disengages the drum clutch dog. It does not control the winch. When the drum clutch is disengaged from the drum, you can free spool cable off by hand. If the clutch is engaged, the drum is locked to the drum shaft & will only turn via PTO power. If the clutch engagement lever appears to be doing nothing regardless of its setting, the notoriously typical issue of a loose clutch fork set screw is the very likely reason for it. You will have to pull the clutch end housing to repair if you have this going on.
Charles Talbert
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