Door Hold Open Linkage

[knattrass]

The driver's door bracket that was welded into the door that has the guides for the link to slide thru must have broken off and is now screwed into place. The passenger door bracket finally let go and is now in my right hand. Is there a repair kit for these welded in assemblies? My links are good but the bracket are fragged.

[m-37Bruce]

Has a replacement, they were 4 or 5$'s. Some neardowell had them on ebay for 24$'s![URL=http://good-times.webshots.com/pho ... .jpg[/img][/url]

[URL=http://good-times.webshots.com/pho ... .jpg[/img][/url]

Here's how mine turned out.
[URL=http://good-times.webshots.com/pho ... .jpg[/img][/url]

[knattrass]

Hey Bruce - sorry for the poor description.... mine broke off inside the door. It has the little guides that the line run thru in/out of the door face.

I'll try to take a pic - Keith

[m-37Bruce]

[URL=http://good-times.webshots.com/pho ... .jpg[/img]

The Door Arm Check should simply pop out, from the inside.
This picture is courtesy Bill Lammer, he used to have a small supply of these, might still? The Door Arm Checks are available all over, Sid Beck should have 'em too, NOS.[/url]

BTW, They should be kept lubricated, I use white grease, not sure of the correct name.[URL=http://good-times.webshots.com/pho ... .jpg[/img][/url]

The last pic, before touch-up.

[knattrass]

Bruce - whew... I was worried there for a minute.

Looks like I have to replace the 2 rivets holding the guides and that rebuilds the bracket. Then a little hammering to straighten it back to a 90 degree, and it looks like you can pop rivet or screw them back into the door face?

[m-37Bruce]

Drill two holes, pop rivet one side & tack weld the other.
Someone, somewhere has got to have the wire guides, Bill L had a mess of them, but they are gone for now?

[Nickathome]

My truck's passenger side door was missing the same items. Rather than create a wait for myself, I simply cut a piece of 1/8 flat steel, slotted it and welded it into the opening(it was halfassed by someone years ago anyway). The check arm stops against this plate and prevents the door from swinging too far and hitting the fender, however it cannot lock open like the driver's side can. It works pretty well and is not noticed so I don't give it too much thought. Beats the alternative where I had to be careful with the door every time I opened it so it wouldn't bang the fender. A few times I forgot and got a rude awakening in the form of a loud thud. Had to touch up the paint a few times as a result.

[knattrass]

Bruce - in the photo where the 2 rivets are shown, someone welded a nut to the surface, drill a hole outboard of the square hole and bolted it into position. The litte flange on the inboard edge, the guy drill two holes from the inside of the door and attached the inboard leg with 2 metal screws. That's the driver's side. You can also see that they drilled the 2 rivets off holding the little wire guides and replaced with little screws.

The passenger side just broke the weld as you described. Guess its time to fiddle with that one to see if we can come up with something. I'll take a photo.

[Lifer]

This discussion seems a little strange to me. My truck is a '54 model and is totally "unmolested," body-wise. The driver's door has a check arm like the ones illustrated above. The passenger door does not (and never has) have one. Instead, the passenger door is restrained by a webbing strap secured to the door and the tub by footman loops. Does anyone know when the change was made?

[m-37Bruce]

A field modification "fer sure", both of my doors were as you describe. but no footman loops, six holes, six wood screws, two honkin' pieces of strap steel & about 6 or 7 inches of OD webbing per door. I hated the way it looked. BTW it was my first serious welding job on the od-goddess as Kurt Hirte has nick named her. Both of my doors were like Nick's were