g741.org

Hello, I’m new to this forum. I purchased a 1955 M37 with 24000 miles. The truck is a Canadian version I presume for I am in Canada. I purchased it as a stalled project that someone else had. It came with a 2003 Dodge 3/4 ton 4x4 with a Cummins and a 6 speed. The previous owners plan was to put the M37 on the dodge chassis. Since I have acquired it I have changed the direction of the plan. The truck i believe is totally original with NO RUST so I plan on keeping it that way. I got it running and some work had been done to it previously like the brakes and new fuel line. Now with a question. I finally figured out how to turn the lights on and they were working but both headlights burnt out after a very short time. I have it wired for 24 volts. I’ll stop there. I look forward to learning about this truck. Thanks in advance

Welcome to the G741! Congratulations on your truck! The only suggestion I have on your headlight issue is to use a voltmeter and check the voltage at the headlights. Double check the headlight to make sure they are 24v. Great looking truck and congratulations!

Patrick

Welcome Northof...! Thanks for saving another one. Use the search engine or post your many questions. Lots of M37 experts here to help you along. We all started where you are, so take your time and enjoy the ride! Glad to have you with us!
Gary

Northof53,
I'd check out the condition of the harness before getting too deep into any electrical diagnosis. If it hasn't been replaced it's likely falling apart and you don't want to light up your new toy in a BIG way! Fortunately anything you need to sort it is readily available.

Andy

Thanks for the welcome. Yes I haven’t got around to checking the voltage to the lights. And yes the wiring is very sketchy to say the least. All my lights work except for one which I think is the brake light. It’s a 4 inch totally red light located in the back right side. I have a question. To put locking hubs on it do I need to do anything besides putting the locking mechanism on? The paint on my truck looks like someone thought it might be a good idea to paint it without any prep, it’s all flacking off. I don’t think it would be too big of a job to blast it and put a fresh coat of paint on it.

Northof53,
Hubs are pretty easy, just make sure the mounting surfaces are flat and clean and I'd suggest some loctite on the threads along with proper torque. I like to put some anaerobic sealant on the gasket too.

Andy

Right on, I thought maybe I needed different axles or something. Would be nice if it wasn’t turning all the time.

Welcome to the site Northof53,

Great looking truck to start with, they are lots of fun to drive and not too hard to work on. There is allot of great information on this site and plenty of great members to bounce question off of.

Regards,
Bert

Thanks, picked up some seals for the transfer case today so get some of the leaks fixed. Wouldn’t happen to have a Napa part number for the front axle pinion seal?

Dave at DC Truck parts has seals that work well. Don't forget to pick up some speedi-sleeves for the flanges, they are likely worn.

Andy

Well I guess my truck must really only have 25000 miles. Changed the seals and the yokes weren’t worn at all. Now I just need to change the front axle pinion seal and that should stop 90% of the leaks. Oil pan gasket leaks. Is that a job that can be done without taking out the motor?

The oil pan gasket can be done in place. Due to the way the pick up works it's a good idea to clean out the pan on an engine with an unknown history. They collect goodies in the bottom of the sump due to the floating pickup. Best gaskets sells good rear seals.

Andy

Ok thanks. I presume the rear seal is a pull the transmission program to get that one.

Floyd

For the rear main? Yes, access thru the dropped oil pan then the end bearing cap if you have the 4-piece rear main seal as opposed to the later version.
Gary