Tie rod, castle nut/slotted nut question

[RedUtilityTruck]

I am just getting done replacing the upper and lower knuckle bearings in an attempt to get rid of a road crown induced wander.

My question is this: The tire rod appears ball and threaded portion gives the appearance of being too long. When the Castle nut is torqued down the cotter pin is basically above the slots and nut in general.

I am under the impression that I do not want a washer between the nut and the steering knuckle, so that does not seem to be an option.

What is the best way to take up this space? A deeper Castle nut? Open to any and all suggestions!

Thanks,
J

[sturmtyger380]

Do you have the maintainance manual for the truck? You can find them online.

At the Steel Soldiers website, once you join you can download M37 Manuals.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/t ... 37.145688/

In the manual it shows you first slip a washer over the tie rod end, then a cover (looks like a washer), another washer and then a spring. Then you put the threaded end of the tie rod through either the left or right flange assembly for the knuckle assembly. That might help push the opening lower for the cotter pin to match up with the castle nut.

[RedUtilityTruck]

Yes I have that manual, and the rubber-washer-spring is installed below the knuckle as intended.

The only thing I can imagine is that the knuckle-tie rod hole is too big?

[sturmtyger380]

How tight were the old tie rod ends? Maybe measure the old one compared to the new ones?

[RedUtilityTruck]

Yeah it seems like the tie rid ball is longer than needs to be....

[sturmtyger380]

Where did you get the replacements?

John has them:

https://shop.midwestmilitary.com/produc ... od-end-lh/

https://shop.midwestmilitary.com/produc ... od-end-rh/