Transfer Case Seals

topellis · Post by **topellis** » Wed Jun 25, 2008 9:27 am

Well, almost one year after installing 1967 NOS (piece of crap) seals that leaked some on the first drive and pretty much just leaked as bad as the original ones after that.... I just installed new commercial seals. I got the pn from Charles Talbert and can only say that it is the first time since I have owned this truck that the transfer case is actually dry. It was hard to believe and can tell you that the small upper seals for the hi/low/4x4 shafts are an extreme pain to remove. I put the redi sleeves on the drive shaft companion flanges and had nos, Ebrake and Input flanges so it should be drip free for some time. (I hope)

For the first time in a long time I can actually park it on the driveway.

Mark

Post by **Cal_Gary** » Wed Jun 25, 2008 11:50 am

Awesome Mark! Mine had a rear main that marked all the terrain until I replaced it a couple of years back-now high and dry (what a relief)!
Gary

JGPierce · Post by **JGPierce** » Wed Jun 25, 2008 12:26 pm

Sounds great!

Can you supply me with the parts numbers you used?

Thanks.

Nickathome · Post by **Nickathome** » Thu Jun 26, 2008 2:45 am

Yes, I'd also like to know what the part numbers for the seals are, especially the small seals for the 4WD levers. One of mine is leaking and I'd like to change them out if I could. How difficult is it to remove the old ones, and how did you do it?

topellis · Post by **topellis** » Thu Jun 26, 2008 7:27 am

The seals are Federal Mogul and I think they are a double lip seal. The small one is 470954 you will need two of those and the large one is 410308 you will need four of those. I have already thrown away the packaging for the redi sleeves. I had gotten that number from Charles Talbert who I think frequents here from time to time. The address to his web site is http://www.mseriesrebuild.com/ He has always been good answering questions for me. I owe him a bunch for all the advice. lol. The companion flange set I had gotten from AB Linn some time ago.
I have heard many tell about getting the small ones out... but I will just say it is rough. I had drilled small holes in the face of the small seals and put screws in them and used the slide hammer to pull on them. Mostly this just pulled the inner most part out some and allowed you to get hold of that edge with needle nose vice grips. I pulled most of the sheetmetal face off. I then tapped the sides inward, away from the outermost part of the recess the seal is in. They came out little at a time by basically peeling the sheetmetal face out with the needle nose vice grips. I pried the felt wiper, spring and seal when I got enough of the face off. I tried to pry in the direction that would be pulling them out of the hole. and on each one, when I had the face of it almost pulled out, I was able to get one end up a little and pry it out. It took most like two hours each to get out. I am sure someone will say some easy way to get them out.... but it wasn't easy for me. I guess you just have to be determined that it has to come out some way, use what tools you have at your disposal and get at it. I guess some may come out easier than mine but as I reinstalled them using a deep well socket to drive it in with. I was sure glad I wouldn't have to be messing with them again any time soon.
For removal of the larger ones, I removed the companion flange..... and used a small three jaw puller, flipped the jaws outward and pushing on the shaft to remove. I had to take one of the jaws off to get it into the seal. The other two I was able to get inside the seal then reinstall the one and just pull them out... Worked real well on them. I drove them in with a scrap piece of hardwood flooring. I didnt' have much luck trying to just tap them round with a hammer, the hardwood board worked well on the big ones. It may be worth mentioning that on the small ones you need to clean the shaft real well before installing the new seal. I also covered the shaft with some masking tape and grease when I slid the new seal over it so it couldn't nick the new seal. If you temporarily reinstall the linkage and have an assistant move it you can put it where it is in as far as it will go, remove linkage and use a deep well socket to drive the new seal in place.

Hope that helps,

Nickathome · Post by **Nickathome** » Thu Jun 26, 2008 8:30 am

Thanks for the info.

I think at this time I may just try to replace only the leaking small seal, and leave the rest for whe nthey start to go. So far I only have the one leak. Were yo uable to get these seals directl yfrom federal mogul or did you go through a middleman. I seem to remember federal mogul having their own website.

What did you need the redisleeves for? I am, going to assume for the companion flange seasl? Where did you buy the seals? Does NAPA sell them? I searched on the net just now but couldn't locate any.

MSeriesRebuild · Post by **MSeriesRebuild** » Thu Jun 26, 2008 1:56 pm

Mark gave a pretty good explanation for removing the shift shaft seals, they can be a chore & most times are. I would only add be careful not to scratch the seal bores or the shaft seal mating areas when removing them. Deep scratches will make the possibility of a leak much more likely. Be sure to use some anaerobic gasket maker on the outer seal case before installing. If your shift shaft is rust pitted, a new seal is fruitless, but you already know that. If you run into that, we have some stainless steel ones.

topellis · Post by **topellis** » Fri Jun 27, 2008 6:33 am

Nick,
I believe either federal mogul or national are the same numbers. I have had mine almost eight months and I beileve I had to order them from NAPA. They didn't have them in stock. Yes the Redi-sleeve was for the groove in the companion flange. When I originally replaced the worn seals with the NOS seal I didn't have the replacement set I mentioned getting from AB Linn so I used the sleeve on them. I had originally thought that the upper seals wouldn't leak that badly because they were so high up, I was wrong and I should have put sleeves on the input and ebrake flanges when I had them out the first time. Second try I had new flanges to replace the worn ones with. Also I did forget to mention that I used number 2 permatex sealant around the circumfrence of the seals. I know he uses other types.

HTH
Mark

Nickathome · Post by **Nickathome** » Fri Jun 27, 2008 8:17 am

10-4 , got it. I think I am going to take a trip to NAPA then and place an order.

MSeriesRebuild · Post by **MSeriesRebuild** » Fri Jun 27, 2008 2:27 pm

Nickathome wrote:10-4 , got it. I think I am going to take a trip to NAPA then and place an order.

NAPA doesn't offer National seals. A bearing supply house will save you money over NAPA. I would not recommend C/R seals which is what you will get at NAPA. To much trouble not to use the best seals.

Juan · Post by **Juan** » Thu Jul 03, 2008 5:36 am

Are these seals (#410308) for using redisleeves or the oem diameter flanges?

If they are for readysleeves, I would like to have the part number for those.

MSeriesRebuild · Post by **MSeriesRebuild** » Thu Jul 03, 2008 4:34 pm

Juan wrote:Are these seals (#410308) for using redisleeves or the oem diameter flanges?

If they are for readysleeves, I would like to have the part number for those.

Yes 410308 works with redi-sleeves or the original flange if the flange is in good shape. The redi-sleeve# is National 99212.

Juan · Post by **Juan** » Fri Jul 04, 2008 5:16 pm

Thanks Charles, I've always wanted to know the part number of the redi sleeves that our t-cases needs.

Is it right to pay $30 for one of those 99212 sleeves?

MSeriesRebuild · Post by **MSeriesRebuild** » Sat Jul 05, 2008 6:13 am

Juan wrote:Thanks Charles, I've always wanted to know the part number of the redi sleeves that our t-cases needs.

Is it right to pay $30 for one of those 99212 sleeves?

They run around $26 from our bearing supplier, $30 is a fair price if buying 1 or 2.

Juan · Post by **Juan** » Mon Jul 07, 2008 7:12 pm

Thanks again Charles,

I wanted to know because I buy lots of parts from Rockauto and they offer them for $30.

Transfer Case Seals

Transfer Case Seals

Part Numbers

Seals

Seals.

Re: Seals.