Replacing exhaust manifold (Building a header)

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isaac_alaska
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Re: Replacing exhaust manifold (Building a header)

Post by isaac_alaska »

been a long time since i've posted, but i have made some progress! got it all finished up and welded a flange on the outlet (actually i made two flanges, so i can bolt the new pipe on) and now i'm considering buying a section of braided stainless to connect between the header and the pipe. reduce stress on the side of the block. i don't know if it's necessary but it might be a nice touch.
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Found some really good (as far as i can tell) header paint made by Eastwood. "Eastwood high temp internal exhaust coating." It comes with a long tube so you can paint the inside of the tubes. i also did a full coat on the outside.
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anyone want to hazzard a guess as to what i had fitment issues with? ;)
Isaac
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RMS
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Re: Replacing exhaust manifold (Building a header)

Post by RMS »

thats purdy ....im going to say oil pump
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w30bob
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Re: Replacing exhaust manifold (Building a header)

Post by w30bob »

Isaac,

That looks fantastic...........great job. Now you need to get it over to Andy for some dyno results! You may just find yourself in the header business!

Awesome job dude!

regards,
bob
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Re: Replacing exhaust manifold (Building a header)

Post by isaac_alaska »

Thanks guys! It did indeed hit the oil pump as configured, but I was able to modify a section and route it out of the way. This paint is rated to 1800F and by the way it handled TIG welding 1/4" away without bubbling, I believe it.
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Isaac
Fairbanks, AK
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'52 M37 on 11x16 Michelin
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Re: Replacing exhaust manifold (Building a header)

Post by kelley »

Man that looks like a lot of work, GREAT JOB!
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RMS
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Re: Replacing exhaust manifold (Building a header)

Post by RMS »

valves look easier to get to with that new header. the dump position looks perfect to shoot the pipe under the frame just behind the shackle.

great work man! what kind of muffler will you be running ?
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w30bob
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Re: Replacing exhaust manifold (Building a header)

Post by w30bob »

What kind of paint did you use? I need to find some header paint for a Cushman scooter I restored for my Dad and most of the "High Heat" paint I've found is pure crap. It would be nice to find something that can actually withstand heat.

thanks,
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isaac_alaska
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Re: Replacing exhaust manifold (Building a header)

Post by isaac_alaska »

thanks! it was a lot of work but i like to think of it as a learning experience! :)

i need to set the valves next, and run a line for the PCV valve. i was in such a hurry to get the manifold bolted on i skipped those steps...

haven't picked out a muffler yet, i was gonna go down to napa or O'reilly and see if they had something in stock that will fit up under the running board where i need it to fit, and then rout the exhaust pipe to fit.

the paint is Made by eastwood, they call it "internal exhaust coating" you can check it out here. I should have it running again in the next few days (weeks?) and can see how well it holds up during use.
Isaac
Fairbanks, AK
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Re: Replacing exhaust manifold (Building a header)

Post by w30bob »

Isaac,

Thanks. I checked out the site, read the reviews and watched the video. Seems like good stuff. How did you spray the outside..........does the extension tube simply pull off so you can spray without it.......or did you just spray with the tube and move it around the outside of the header?

thanks,
bob
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Re: Replacing exhaust manifold (Building a header)

Post by isaac_alaska »

The tube pulls off and the can works like conventional spray paint. Dries to the touch extremely quickly. Like a couple of minutes.
Isaac
Fairbanks, AK
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52PLOWERWAGON
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Re: Replacing exhaust manifold (Building a header)

Post by 52PLOWERWAGON »

wow lookin' good :D
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isaac_alaska
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Re: Replacing exhaust manifold (Building a header)

Post by isaac_alaska »

Whoops. Left nipple hits the throttle linkage. Shoulda seen that one coming. One more cut and weld and it should be ready to fire up!
Isaac
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'52 M37 on 11x16 Michelin
'52 M37 on Apple R-1 tractor tires
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isaac_alaska
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Re: Replacing exhaust manifold (Building a header)

Post by isaac_alaska »

moved the nipple about 2" towards the center of the manifold, just enough to allow it to sit outside the range of the throttle bellcrank. Everything lines up now, got the carb and air cleaner bolted back on, and of course had to fire it up just to see what would happen...of course this is without the muffler or PCV attached, and after the truck has sat outside all winter. Happily it cranked right up on the second press of the starter and within 30 seconds or so was running as good as ever! somewhat loud but that's to be expected...gotta find a muffler for it now! any problems with letting the exhaust exit in front of the rear passenger tire? it's either that or run it back up the side through the fording pipe like it's routed now.
Isaac
Fairbanks, AK
Civilian WM300 on DC3 tires
'52 M37 on 11x16 Michelin
'52 M37 on Apple R-1 tractor tires
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Re: Replacing exhaust manifold (Building a header)

Post by Jess »

Isaac, That's some very nice work. For the exhaust dumping in front of the rear tire, mine was modified for civilian exhaust at the end of its service life and they just put a tailpipe that comes out to the side just ahead of the tire, I have never had any issue with it here but then I don't carry troops in the seats under canvas. The exhaust issue came up with the 5/4 ton GM trucks and we had to run with the sides rolled up if carrying anyone in the back due to CO buildup under the tarp. I don't think many of us will ever have that issue but its one to be aware of.

Looking forward to your posting pictures with all the bits back on.
isaac_alaska
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Re: Replacing exhaust manifold (Building a header)

Post by isaac_alaska »

Exhaust ran to the muffler, muffler mounted, right now exhaust just exits directly from the muffler but eventually I'll figure out where to run it. I forget who suggested it, somewhere in the "most practical mods" thread, to use a section of flexible braided stainless just after the manifold. Made it very easy to get everything just right! Even got the PCV valve mounted and routed and plumbed. I left off the fording valve for now, I think as long as I keep the block above waterline it's unecessary!

Here's a couple pics of the finished install
PCV plumbed in with 3/8 steel brake line
PCV plumbed in with 3/8 steel brake line
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Manifold water jacket, and flexy braided SS pipe
Manifold water jacket, and flexy braided SS pipe
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Have to look closely for the flexible drop
Have to look closely for the flexible drop
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Isaac
Fairbanks, AK
Civilian WM300 on DC3 tires
'52 M37 on 11x16 Michelin
'52 M37 on Apple R-1 tractor tires
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