Soldering 14 ga wires

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W_A_Watson_II
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Soldering 14 ga wires

Post by W_A_Watson_II »

OK, guys, I've know I'm not a person who has ever properly or successfully soldered a plumbing pipe or electrical connection (except batter cables).

Now that I need to solder the 14 gauge wires to the new military headlight switch connector, and make the splices, I need help/advice.

I bought a gun at O'Reilly, but it didn't spec. the wattage, my guess is maybe a 100 watts. It's either a crappy gun, or just not big enough to splice three wires together. It never gets the hear into the wires to let the solder melt when I touch the solder to the wires.

If I can't make a three way splice how can I ever solder the wires to the new 12 pin headlight connector?

All/Any help/Advice is appreciated.

Will
Thanks,
Will
1946 Dodge Power Wagon
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Re: Soldering 14 ga wires

Post by jordankjcm »

Will,

I have another hobby that is somewhat diametrically opposed to working on big rough tough M37s...that is making stained glass Tiffany style lamps and stained glass panels. Don't laugh please! ~~ :P In that hobby I use a Weller brand 80 watt pencil style soldering iron (not gun) and a 100 watt (for larger lead came) and have been soldering crap together for 25 + years. Both of those irons far exceed what would be needed to solder three 14 ga. wires together. Obviously you would want to use rosin core solder when soldering the wires; my trick is to melt a little solder on the iron's tip, then place that molten solder against the wire. This makes a great heat transfer connection to the wire.....then when the wires are at temperature, place the solder on the wires and it will "wick" into the strands. You want to get the copper wires hot enough to melt the solder so it wicks in. The key is getting a good thermal transfer from the iron to the wires. One thing to be mindful is that too much heat melts the wire insulation.

regards,

Jeff
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Re: Soldering 14 ga wires

Post by w30bob »

Hi Will,

When you say a "gun" I assume it has a trigger. What I do is let the gun get good and hot.......so when you touch the solder to the tip it melts instantly. Then, keeping the trigger pulled back, move the tip under the wires to be soldered while holding a length of solder on the top of the wires. It should only take a few seconds for the heat to transfer thru the wires and melt the solder, but not long enough to melt the insulation, as Jeff said. If you're doing a lot of splicing you can jury rig a small vise and some alligator clips to hold the wires while you work the gun and solder. Also, make sure the soldering tip of the gun is attached firmly to the gun, sometimes the set screws back out and then the tip doesn't make a good connection to the gun and doesn't get hot enough.

regards,
bob
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Re: Soldering 14 ga wires

Post by W_A_Watson_II »

Yep, a gun with a trigger. And that's how I was doing it, just never got hot enough once placed on the wires to get them hot enough to melt the solder. So I'm guessing the inexpensive (cheap) gun from O's is not good enough or high enough wattage.
Thanks,
Will
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Re: Soldering 14 ga wires

Post by majorhitt »

I've used both type of soldering irons, the gun style and the pencil type. I didn't really care for the gun style, I use the pencil type more now, and for times when the work can't get to the work bench I got the butane pencil type. I find myself using the butane more. Keep the tip clean and screwed in tight, works just right on almost all the wires you'll find on the M37.
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Re: Soldering 14 ga wires

Post by ZGjethro »

I use a pencil and gun type. I like the high heat (250w) of the gun type for most auto soldering. I use the finer iron for electronics work.
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Re: Soldering 14 ga wires

Post by T. Highway »

Hi Will,

I use a dual wattage Weller brand, pistol style solder gun. (200/300 watt) Make sure to keep the tips tight and properly tinned for flawless solder joints. The solder that you use is another key factor. I prefer a 40/60 (tin/lead) rosin core for overall general purpose wiring connections. Make sure that your wires are clean and shiny copper when you start. If the wire has oxidation it is easily cleaned with a little Muriatic acid. Make sure you have enough of a puddle of solder on the tip, prior to touching the iron to the wires, this will transfer the heat allot better for you. I like the .032" and .062 for most applications. The .125" diameter is often too hard to heat up with NON industrial solder guns.

Hope this helps,

Bert
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Re: Soldering 14 ga wires

Post by W_A_Watson_II »

Thanks guys, great tips. I have a Weller D650 (200/300 Watt) Soldering Gun on order, should be here Friday. Then to put all these great tips to work in soldering the wires to the Headlight 12 wire connector and make some splice connections.

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Will
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Re: Soldering 14 ga wires

Post by Tanner »

It's the reason why I use crimp contacts...

Tanner
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Re: Soldering 14 ga wires

Post by W_A_Watson_II »

Thanks for all the advice and help. Also thanks to a new high wattage soldering gun, I'm back in business.

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Thanks,
Will
1946 Dodge Power Wagon
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My 1953 Dodge M37 WEB Site
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Re: Soldering 14 ga wires

Post by T. Highway »

Will,

Looks like you made some very good progress. The right tool for the job makes all the difference.

Bert
1952 M37 W/W Rebuild @ 59% complete
Engine rebuild @ 95% complete
1985 M1009, 1990 M101A2, 2008 M116A3 Pioneer tool trailer
MVPA # 24265
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Re: Soldering 14 ga wires

Post by W_A_Watson_II »

Bert,

Thanks and it does in deed. Both harnesses are now in the truck, and ready to start terminating wires.

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Thanks,
Will
1946 Dodge Power Wagon
1953 Dodge M37 - "Frankenstein"
My 1953 Dodge M37 WEB Site
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