what electric fuel pump and pressure regulator

ZGjethro · Post by **ZGjethro** » Fri Apr 02, 2010 12:08 pm

Hi. This is my first posting here though reading other people's questions has helped me out a few times. I have been having flooding problems, to the point that my plugs are fouled and the truck won't run. I have sent my distributor and carb to M Series Rebuild for work to eliminate any problems there. My question is, what 24 volt fuel pump is most recommended by people doing retrofits?. I have ordered a Holley 12-804 pressure regulator and a pressure gauge also, as I do not trust the cheap plastic regulator that was on the truck when I bought it.

ZGjethro · Post by **ZGjethro** » Fri Apr 02, 2010 6:31 pm

More to the point, what pressure range and gallons per minute do you look for in an electric fuel pump?

cuz · Post by **cuz** » Fri Apr 02, 2010 9:39 pm

Is there a specific reason you are not using the mechanical fuel pump that is original to the engine? Electric fuel pumps and their associated regulators are usually a band aid for other repairable fuel delivery issues. The original mechanical pumps are more than adequate with a well maintained plumbing and filter system.

ZGjethro · Post by **ZGjethro** » Fri Apr 02, 2010 11:01 pm

I bought my truck with the electric fuel pump and the pressure regulator already installed. I replaced the pressure regulator and wanted to be sure the pump was appropriate. I never really gave any consideration to using the mechanical pump and just kind of assumed the electric ones were superior.

I have been having bad flooding problems, which I am just starting to address. What do others think of mechanical vs electrical pumps? Thanks. John

Master Yota · Post by **Master Yota** » Fri Apr 02, 2010 11:55 pm

I like to use both on some appications. An electric is especially handy if you're prone to running out of fuel. Mechanical pumps take forever to suck fuel from the tank to the pump after the line has gone dry. An electric will refill the line in seconds. If you've got a flow through electric pump it can then be shut off and the vehicle ran (run?) on the mechanical pump.

ZGjethro · Post by **ZGjethro** » Sat Apr 03, 2010 8:38 am

Cuz and Master Yota, thanks for the replies. They have got me thinking of using the mechanical pump also. I do not know why it was bypassed or if it is still good. I am cleaning up the fuel lines as they are a frankenstein mess of rubber and steel pieces with a lot of hose clamps involved, and the fuel cutoff valve leaks. I will be using 5/16 injector hose from the original fuel filter to my fender mounted pressure regulator. I can always interrupt this line to put it on the Mechanical pump. Are there any temperature issues with this?

refit1701 · Post by **refit1701** » Sat Apr 03, 2010 8:43 am

There was originally a heat shield mounted above the pump to keep the exhaust manifold heat from boiling the gas. You might need to fabricate one.

Master Yota · Post by **Master Yota** » Sat Apr 03, 2010 11:01 am

The usuall reason for bypassing the factory pump is that the vacume diaphram is toast. Once it goes, it allows fuel to leak past into the engine block and mix with the oil. Gasoline makes a good parts cleaner, but a lousy lubricant and more than one engine has been ruined this way.

Definitley worth pulling the factory pump off and inspecting it before hooking it back up again. A rebuild kit should be fairly easy to source from some of the vendors mentioned on this site.

MSeriesRebuild · Post by **MSeriesRebuild** » Sat Apr 03, 2010 6:11 pm

Don't source an NOS rebuild kit from anyone, diaphragm will be deteriorated and is not compatible with today's gasoline.

www.then-now.com can furnish a current manufacture rebuild kit that will work just fine. The only source I know of for a good quality kit. They also offer rebuild service if needed.