WTB transfer case parts

[shawn085]

I am looking for the input shaft and the front axle output shaft. Also all the loose needle bearings. If anyone knows where I may be able to find them please let me know.

Thanks
Shawn

[k8icu]

I have a complete take out transfer case that I'm selling...you could get all the parts you need from there...

[nivek]

boclonka@REMOVETHISgmail.com

Call me at 541.922.3774 h
Cell 541.561.7928

kevinL

[MSeriesRebuild]

I am looking for the input shaft and the front axle output shaft. Also all the loose needle bearings. If anyone knows where I may be able to find them please let me know.

Thanks
Shawn

AB Linn did have these items in stock, had hundreds a while back.

ablinn@salisbury.net

[Drew M.]

The input shaft was not avail from AB nor VPW as of 10/2008 when I rebilt my t/c. VPW - had rusty input shafts which they let me know were not worth using after I placed my order. VPW discovered the problem when they went to ship the input shaft and called me.

You'll need to get another used input shaft. Normally they do not wear but for rust.

IMHO - look for another t/c and put new seals/yokes (AB Linn) in it. AB Linn sells the NOS yokes for much less than the price to buy redi-sleeves.

I will say, my rebuilt t/c is much much quieter than most NP200 units I experienced. If you decide to rebuild it, it is not complicated. Setting up the idler gears w/o ruining the shims/pre-load was tough as I did not have the factory tool. I spent the most time getting it right. The rest of the rebuild went smoothly. The only annoying thing was the new (not NOS) input shaft seal with a NOS yoke started leaking after a few days. The other yokes (2 NOS/1 redi-sleeved) did not leak.

[MSeriesRebuild]

The input shaft was not avail from AB nor VPW as of 10/2008 when I rebilt my t/c. VPW - had rusty input shafts which they let me know were not worth using after I placed my order. VPW discovered the problem when they went to ship the input shaft and called me.

You'll need to get another used input shaft. Normally they do not wear but for rust.

IMHO - look for another t/c and put new seals/yokes (AB Linn) in it. AB Linn sells the NOS yokes for much less than the price to buy redi-sleeves.

I will say, my rebuilt t/c is much much quieter than most NP200 units I experienced. If you decide to rebuild it, it is not complicated. Setting up the idler gears w/o ruining the shims/pre-load was tough as I did not have the factory tool. I spent the most time getting it right. The rest of the rebuild went smoothly. The only annoying thing was the new (not NOS) input shaft seal with a NOS yoke started leaking after a few days. The other yokes (2 NOS/1 redi-sleeved) did not leak.

The NOS yokes will rust quickly, then is when the dripping will start as the rust pitting will soon ruin a new seal. Using a NOS yoke along with a redi-sleeve is great if you do indeed have an untouched NOS part. Many of these yokes sold as NOS are actually take-offs that have been chucked up in a lathe & a new seal mating surface turned on it. This of course undersizes the yoke OD causing a new seal to be a loose fit. If yours had a smooth pit free surface & still leaked with a new seal, that is likely what you have. It's virtually impossible to tell it has been turned unless you check it with a micrometer, AB would not have known unless he went to the trouble to check. If you were using NOS seals, you are lucky all don't leak & after a few miles they will. If you used new production seals, along with a turned yoke, you must install a redi-sleeve to get back to a suitable yoke diameter for the seal to do its job. Bottom line is this, we've tried it all here. The best way to get a drip free case is to install redi-sleeves on all yokes using anaerobic sealer inside the sleeves before pressing on. Install brand new current production double lip seals also. The NOS seals with the felt dust seal on 1 side of the rubber lip is worse than awful. That felt is nothing but a water trap & will cause your yoke to severely rust in short order.

[shawn085]

Mseires;

I tried to get the shafts from AB linn but he said he only sells on Ebay now. The new seals you talked about do you have P/N's. I want to put my transfercase back together and get the truck back on the road. I would like to change the input and front output shaft but it could last a bit longer if it had too. I got all the yokes from AB and they look great but I will check the dementions like you said. I still need the loose rollers int the transfercase. Any ideas where I can get them?

Cheers

[MSeriesRebuild]

Mseires;

I tried to get the shafts from AB linn but he said he only sells on Ebay now. The new seals you talked about do you have P/N's. I want to put my transfercase back together and get the truck back on the road. I would like to change the input and front output shaft but it could last a bit longer if it had too. I got all the yokes from AB and they look great but I will check the dementions like you said. I still need the loose rollers int the transfercase. Any ideas where I can get them?

Cheers

Buy the shafts off e-bay from AB's store.

Seal part# is National 410308

Redi-Sleeve 99212

Loose needles can be purchased from any bearing supply house, I don't have that # off my head. Can get it when I'm back at the shop.