best complete engine gasket set for my 230 cu.

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Cav Trooper
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best complete engine gasket set for my 230 cu.

Post by Cav Trooper »

I'm confused, it seems that no one sells a complete engine gasket set for the 230. I'm under the inpression that you have to order main seals from one source and engine gaskets from another and front timing chain crankshaft seal from yet another. Is this tru? Can I buy all from one vendor and get quality parts that fit the job?
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Re: best complete engine gasket set for my 230 cu.

Post by just me »

Felpro set comes with everything but the one version of the rear main my 53 block used.
There were 3 different rear mains used, the set comes with the 2 more common ones.
It came with all the different front seal components. Just use the ones that match what you removed.
"It may be ugly, but at least it is slow!"
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Re: best complete engine gasket set for my 230 cu.

Post by NAM VET »

I used a set from Best Gasket, see:

http://www.bestgasket.com/pop_up_pictur ... ber=RS510C

It comes with gaskets for other related motors you won't use. Also, I read on this forum that there is a better front timing cover oil seal than the one that comes in the set. You can search on this forum for info on that. I then ordered the better seal from my local auto parts store. I had my local machine shop remove the old seal and install the better one. For the water pump, if you are using a new one, remove the back cover, and use the special sealant for water pumps from your parts store: i then bolted the pump's back on and set it aside to dry. It has remained leak free on my motor.

The copper gasket in the kit was a perfect fit over my ARP stud kit from VPW; studs allow even torque on the head, be sure to use a sealant on the threads; I used a non-hardening sealant on the threads, allows re-torquing later without breaking the seal. To put the water pump on the block, I bought studs from my local ACE. Be sure if you use bolts or studs you don't put them in too far, you can insert them too far and hit the #1 cylinder wall or sleeve; not good. I did not understand the rear main seal installation, and finally with help from this forum, found I was trying to insert it incorrectly. Some motors use a two-half external seal, which I also ordered on line, but I then ordered the correct inner rubber seal. I don't think any sets come with the gasket for the military oil filler bolt-on tube. For that, I used Hylomar Blue, ordered on line. Used it also on the metal mating surfaces on the block ends, sparingly. A search on this forum will give the suggestions for sealing both ends of the crank.

There is a special tool for centering the seal behind the crank "jaw" holding the water pump pulley, I used a bolt that I rotated around that seal, it seemed to set that seal correctly, but another way would be to loosely use the water pump drive pulley to set it correctly. By the way, I heated in the oven the water pump drive pulley to easier install it. I also froze the square "key", I think the only way to get the drive pulley on over the key is to put the key in its slot, then tap the pulley on. It is too precise a fit to try to install with the pulley already mounted. Just my experience.

As for the sump gasket-to-block there are differing opinions on this forum. But it is important to follow the TM's recommendation as to leaving the cork ends proud. I installed a steel magnetic sump drain plug, from VPW, but the way the threads are cut on the bolt, it had a slow leak via the gasket. So I recently ordered a special Buna/aluminum Stat-o-Seal bolt-gasket from Pegasus Auto Racing, the bolt threads I recall are are 7/8 inch, but I had to get a one inch Stat-O-Seal to fit over the threads. No leak there now. By the way, I ordered assorted sizes for things like the top bolt on the oil filter canister, and since I also had a slow leak on the canister drain bolt (it is not NPT, by the way), I stopped that leak source with another Stat-O-Seal. Be sure and use an oil-proof sealant on the oil pump cross-over tube and the oil pump threads too. And a tiny bit of non-hardening sealant on things that thread into the oiling system. Not on flare fittings, though.

By the way, I used an ARP thread clean-up tap on the block's head bolt threads. You don't want to use a standard tap, as it will remove too much of the remaining threads in the block. There are special taps that are designed to clean threads, not re-cut them. ARP has various sizes. For my distributor hold down bolt, I replace that with an ARP bullet-head stainless stud, so much easier to just drop a nut on it, can't cross thread it. I put my sump pan on with stainless ARP small wrenching heads, I have a lot of left over ARP stainless stuff. One hole in the block for the sump seemed to be stripped, so I painted that bolt and hole white, so the next person recognizes it as a loose fit. Where ever possible on my motor, I used studs instead of bolts, partly because I have so many left over ARP fasteners.

Also, the lock washers under the rod bolt nuts are special, someone on this forum found a source for them, you can search for it. Whiskey River parts has them, but they only ship once a week, so contact them well ahead of the time you will need them. By the way, I researched Blue Locktite, and it is heat stable to way above our oil temps, and for added security, I used it on my rod nuts.

I have only rebuilt my own motor, and there are folks on this forum with vastly more experience than I here to offer their suggestions.

The moderators just moved my own rebuild threads into one, if you want to review what and how I chose to do things.

for non-hardening sealants, I used Permatex #2 non-hardening Form-A-Gasket sealant.
For the water pump, Permatex Water pump and thermostat Gasket maker (comes in a small tube)
For other places, Hylomar Blue, expensive, ordered on line. For close tolerances, only need a tiny bit.

all the best...

NAM VET
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