Help! My truck won't run!

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just me
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Re: Help! My truck won't run!

Post by just me »

I don't see fording valves in your pictures (Due to the angles they are taken from) So I wasn't going to hazard the guess if you had them. They aren't stock items. Fording valves closed will cause higher than atmospheric crankcase pressure. That is how they keep the water out. That much oil in that short of time seems way beyond what you could do with just a fording valve issue. Now if there are stuck and horribly leaky rings adding to it.....
You do see the problem with your spark plug wire on the rear plug in your picture? You might want to remedy that while you are at it.
The oil at the rear of the exhaust will likely be from the breather port just under the exhaust. The oil from the pump area from the valve chest covers. To be blowing out from the fill tube/dipstick means dead or missing gaskets. The only way I can figure the spark plug wells would be the plugs are not tight in the head or the gaskets are missing/damaged. As dirty as that oil is, we would see traces of it covering the head if was puked out of the fill tube.

And your comment that it was running poorly and sooty speaks of a carb issue that MAY be the cause of the fuel in your oil and not the fuel pump. It the float is too high or stuck open. fuel will pour into the intake manifold and then into the block. But, I don't know how it would ever start that rich.
"It may be ugly, but at least it is slow!"
tumblwd
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Re: Help! My truck won't run!

Post by tumblwd »

Thank you RMS and justme for your replies.
Both of you mentioned the fording valve(s)- (is there more than one?) I do not think my truck has one but don't know for sure. What area should I take a picture of that would show if there is one or not?
When I was replacing ignition parts in my quest for spark, I would crank the engine over for about 15-20 seconds each time. Must have done that 5-8 times. After I replaced the spark plugs on Wednesday, I tried again and got good spark and some "wants to start" action but no start. I surmised then that I had probably flooded the engine, so I put off further attempts until the next day.
On Thursday, before attempting to start the truck, I drained about 1/4 cup of fuel from the air cleaner elbow. Then tried to start the truck without pulling out the choke and depressing the gas pedal. It cranked for about 10 seconds, then got some "wants to start" action, and then it started! That is also when the thick grey/black smoke started belching out, and the oil leaked out from many different places.
So gas is getting into the oil, possibly from a stuck float. When I got the truck last year, at about this time, it ran very poorly, but it needed a safety check before I could get it licensed, so I had it brought to the shop where I get the work done on my car. According to my technician all indications were that it was a fuel issue. At that time the fuel pump was replaced as was the fuel filter and the carburetor was cleaned but not rebuilt. When the carburetor was taken apart it was found to be dirty and "the float was stuck to the bottom". It was freed up and that helped, but even though it would eventually start, it ran rough, had no power, would not do more than 30 mph and would quit after 20-30 minutes, leaving me stranded often. It was then stored for the winter.

Starting in May, I have replaced the fuel pickup (I suspected the repair on the old one had not gone well) and have worked to get the ignition working. I replaced the coil, points, capacitor, and rotor. All the plugs are new and all have gaskets, but looks like I did not tighten them enough. Problem with the spark plug wire noted. How is that repaired? The vent lines for the distributor were not correctly installed and i think they are correct now (at least they are the same as on the "54 and the spare engine).

Before I try to start it again I would guess that my next steps are to clean up as much as I can, change the oil, do a compression test (with the throttle fully open, I understand?), and if I can find a tester, conduct a leak down test. (Thanks for the link to the info from Greg's, justme).
Am I on the right track? What have I missed?

I still have about a month before it starts to get too cold to work on it, and it would sure be nice to be able to drive it a bit before then :D
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just me
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Re: Help! My truck won't run!

Post by just me »

The cure for fuel woes is not inexpensive or easy. Nearly all of us have tried shortcuts because of this. All we did was prolong the agony and add expense.
We can ONLY get ethanol fuels where I live and it plays hell on carbs and fuel system components. I had to have my parts passivated and replated to stop the white rust. Boil the fuel tank, replace ALL the lines, use a gauge to check the fuel pump. Make sure the carb is fully and correctly rebuilt. (Pumping the accelerator with the engine off will do nothing, it will flood if the engine is cranking and has vacuum.)
There are two fording valves. They are brass quarter turn ball valves located between the PCV and the engine block and between the fill standpipe and the airhorn pipe. They are operated by a single pull knob with two cables attached if your truck was equipped for fording. closing the valves prevents the crankcase from breathing and it builds pressure to prevent water from getting inside through seals and gaskets.
There is no substitute for doing a thorough and complete tune-up and service of each system.
Horrid Fright sells the leakdown tester for around $40. https://www.harborfreight.com/cylinder- ... 62595.html
"It may be ugly, but at least it is slow!"
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