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1951 M37
Oliver in Georgia

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Timing pointer on 230 flat head six engine missing

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Timing pointer on 230 flat head six engine missing

Postby outpostm37 » Fri Jan 12, 2018 1:21 pm

I have seen pics of the timing pointer for the flat head 6. Do these bolt on or were they a welded tab on the inside of the cover?
Vehicle starts and runs decent. Need to get one installed to fine tune the timing.
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Re: Timing pointer on 230 flat head six engine missing

Postby Marmalute » Fri Jan 12, 2018 2:58 pm

They were spot welded on. When they go missing, you can usually locate the place where it was welded and from the “footprint”, you can pretty well determine the center line of the pointer. It is then possible to scribe or paint a mark with which you can time/ check timing. These covers are available or I suppose you could even weld another pointer back in place.
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Re: Timing pointer on 230 flat head six engine missing

Postby Marmalute » Fri Jan 12, 2018 3:08 pm

One of my M37s was missing the timing pointer, and interestingly, I found it on the cross member beneath the radiator. So I could weld it back on, but more likely, I’ll put another cover on it with a pointer when I do some engine upgrades in the spring.
Check around, your lost pointer may be close by!
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Re: Timing pointer on 230 flat head six engine missing

Postby NAM VET » Sat Jan 13, 2018 3:31 am

As above members have noted, the pointer is spot welded on the outside of the timing cover. Here is a picture of mine. By the way, when I was reassembling my motor, rotating the crank properly, I used a dial indicator to determine precise TDC on the #1 piston, and compared that to the zero timing engraving on the pulley. My mark was 2 degrees advanced from true TDC, so I put a dab of red paint on true TDC on the pulley, and used my red mark at true TDC to time my motor. By the way, when I first started it after my rebuild, it fired right up and seemed to run fine, then when I checked the timing, using the plug adaptor, it was 16 degrees advanced. I was unable to use the fine timing bolt (I actually put in an ARP stainless stud into the block, much easier to start the locking nut on the stud) to get my motor back to 4 degrees Before TDC, and had to move the coarse adjustment under the distributor to get it it where I could rotate my distributor to get it set to spec. I think a prior rebuild had mistimed the oil pump and and just used the coarse adjustment to compensate for being off one oil pump gear. I had installed a new pump, and at first was dismayed to think I had mistimed my oil pump's insertion, (using Charles T's description of how to set the pump's gear, with a straight edge exactly, and rotate the gear precisely one tooth turn.). By the way, you can look down your distributor's hole in the block, and see if the offset pump slot is exactly horizontal for the tang on the dizzy to slip into. OEM new timing covers are inexpensive to buy. I just cleaned mine up and reused it. Centering the cover on the crank is not so easy. By the way, there is discussion here about using a newer oil seal than the one that comes in the gasket kit, i ordered it from my local parts store. Plus I used some gasket sealer in addition to the paper gasket on the timing cover. When I put the square key in the crank's slot I froze it and then heated the pulley to make it easier to tap on. You have to put the key on before you tap on the pulley. I don't think you could get the key in after installing the pulley.

[url][url=https://postimg.org/image/5981xxiqd/]Image[/url][/url]
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