farm truck rustoration

[52PLOWERWAGON]

to get the starter to work we modified the arm so m37 starter pedal would push it

I was gonna use the civi fly wheel I had it is about 20-30 lbs heavier but only 4 bolt holes vs 6

if I ever drop my tranny I'll have the civi fly wheel drilled so it has 8 holes and ill use that one

[52PLOWERWAGON]

it was 30 degrees and the truck started right up with 40 weight oil in it

no truck pull yet maybe tomorrow

[NAM VET]

Glad you got your truck running. But just a bit of a story about my own single wt oil in my '63 TR4 back in '66, when I was running straight 30 wt oil, as the multi-wt oils then were in their infancy, and not fully proven. One day, I went out to start it, temps probably around freezing, maybe lower, and when I got it running, I was happy with that, as my english sports cars rarely would start if the temps were below freezing. A few days later, I set out on a 1100 mile trip home, and promptly found my lack of prompt engine lubrication had "wiped" my bearings, and I had rod knock and no oil pressure, at a very inopertune time. It was an epic 1100 mile trip home with no oil pressure.

Just my own experience with thick oils and cold temps.

NAM VET

[isaac_alaska]

i've had good luck with valvoline VR-1 racing oil, 10W30. even at zero degrees. i'll probably switch to synthetic at my next oil change to help the cold start

[NAM VET]

I am no engine lubrication expert, but have been interested in oils for my cars since i got my first car, a '63 TR4. I have had all sorts of adventures with oils and oil changes, often with bad results. If i find some sort of lubrication SAE paper, or other such information, I tend to study it for possible application to my own internal combustion engines. I was in Germany (driving my first new car, a '69 Dodge Charger R/T) in '69, and heard about the Porsche cars burning up their engines with the then new Mobil 1 synthetic oils. I switched to the synthetic oils in the late '70's, and have not looked back since. The same for oil additives, the only one I have ever used is the additives with supplemental anti-wear components, although I use caution in catalytic cars. And tried to learn about the advice, pretty much no longer applicable, to avoid synthetics until an engine was "broken-in." I still even now run the OEM oil in a new car only for 500 to a thousand miles, then change to my own choice, and pay particular attention to the expected temps I live in. And try to learn about the shear characteristics of oils. And these days, auto manufactures are far more concerned about CAFE than their engines lasting for hundreds of thousands of miles.

I have no recommendation for oils in these trucks, I only know my own intentions. I changed the 10-30 oil when I got it to 10-40, and my idle pressure in SC's mild temps is 40 psi or so, and at cruise, hot, 55 psi or so. Maybe more than I really need. I run synthetic oils in everything I have that has a piston. My preference in my cars is RedLine oil, having had great luck with it in my former Superformance Cobra's race motor, for the 140,000 miles I drove it. I put in a Canton-Mecca engine pre-lube system in my Cobra, and it was reassuring to hear my motor's gurgling as oil flowed thru it, bringing up my oil pressure before I spun it to start it.

In summary, modern engine oils are superb lubricants, and synthetics are even better.

Had a great day driving my truck out to my IDPA clubs shooting range yesterday, drove it down into and out of gulch yesterday, first time I have the opportunity to pull the levers into four wheel-low drive. Got lots of attention from the other shooters. Hoping to get my replacement turn signal flasher tomorrow and see it all works for me.

All the best, guys....

NAM VET

[52PLOWERWAGON]

that's 15 w 40 sorry for not making that clear

added dual 2.5 inch led tail lights

here's a good one, I modified the original trailer plug cover so a 7 pin camper plug fits behind it and it looks original
and I moved it over to the center


and the best of all I stenciled "BORDER PATROL" on the bed sides

[Elwood]

I have no recommendation for oils in these trucks, I only know my own intentions. I changed the 10-30 oil when I got it to 10-40, and my idle pressure in SC's mild temps is 40 psi or so, and at cruise, hot, 55 psi or so. Maybe more than I really need. I run synthetic oils in everything I have that has a piston. My preference in my cars is RedLine oil, having had great luck with it in my former Superformance Cobra's race motor, for the 140,000 miles I drove it. I put in a Canton-Mecca engine pre-lube system in my Cobra, and it was reassuring to hear my motor's gurgling as oil flowed thru it, bringing up my oil pressure before I spun it to start it.

A pre-luber, even more than the choice of oil, will likely reduce engine wear. Start-up is the hardest on a pressure lubricated engine, since it takes time for the oil pressure to build up that thin film between the plain bearing surfaces.

[NAM VET]

For my Cobra, I put a 2 quart pre-luber on a cross member in front of the motor, with an electrical switch on my dash, so before starting the motor, (a race built 351 Ford stroked and bored out to 396 ci, about 450+ stout ponies), I could pre-oil the motor, and then leave it open, so if I had a high G turn; my son and I did thousands of track miles in our Cobra, I never had a moment of oil starvation, even with a Road Race baffeled pan by Aviad. Then, before turning off the motor, rev it slightly to fill the canister, and turn off the switch, so I did not have a quart or more of oil in the sump, making it hard to get an accurate reading from m dipstick. If I knew where to hook a pre-lube system in my truck, I would put one on the motor.

[isaac_alaska]

If I knew where to hook a pre-lube system in my truck, I would put one on the motor.

there's a line into and out of the oil filter, i would assume stick it on the line that feeds into the side of the filter, the only issue would be you're probably trying to suck oil thru the oil pump....might have to rethink this

[52PLOWERWAGON]

brakes are done, and the are the best brakes I've ever had .
and I began ripping out the rotten wiring that was gonna burn my truck down...




no more electrical gremlins

[RMS]

did you adjust the brakes by feeler gauge or just feel ?
good move pulling all that junk stock wire. making your own harness ? from the light sw to far taillight is around 35ft with long tails. I also made the runs long going to the gauges so it is able to rest on the passenger seat when servicing.

[52PLOWERWAGON]

I adjusted by feel with help from my grandpa

I will be making my own harness, so far I have ignition and fuel pump wired

and my carb is giving me grief is a stock civi carb any better ?

and I will be asking lots of questions about wiring because this is the first harness I have ever built

I have added lights an electric fuel pump and even a siren before and I'm fairly good at using a multimeter so I have a general idea what I'm doing

i am starting a thread in technical group called electrical gremlins , all of my electrical related questions will be in this thread

thank you guys for all of the help

[52PLOWERWAGON]

what size is the stock speedo

looking for a gps speedo ,so i can see if i ever get up above 45 mph

[m-37Bruce]

Cabel Garbee has that info on his page, or look for him her as; cgarbee
Let us know how you make out, on another note, I used a Painless harness and I am very satisfied with it.

[RMS]

my carb is giving me grief is a stock civi carb any better ?

No !

many mechanics over the years have said the same thing: Chrysler cant build a carburetor

I would go weber or single barrel Rochester