Modern Repower

Build and Restoration Threads Belong Here

Moderators: Cal_Gary, T. Highway, Monkey Man, robi

Brett
SSGT
SSGT
Posts: 308
Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2007 4:20 pm
Location: Murfreesboro, TN

Re: Modern Repower

Post by Brett »

I'm in the process of getting driveshafts made up at a local shop. Front and rear shuoldn't be a problem shorten the rear, and lengthen the front. the intermediate shaft is gonna be diffent though. The 4l80e uses a 1350 slip yoke. that end of the shaft is easy. my driveshaft guy says that new tube yokes for the detroit series u joints are not available. so i can go a couple of ways here.

1. Get a 1350 input yoke for the t-case and build a new shaft.

2. Get a conversion U-joint from large to small detroit, and cut down an extra driveshaft I have adding a 1350 tube yoke to the other end.

Option 2 would be cheaper , but my question is whether the small detroit side of the u-joint would be strong enough? Another way of looking at it is why did dodge put larger u-joints on the input of the T- case?

Brett
Josh
SFC
SFC
Posts: 702
Joined: Tue Nov 06, 2007 9:02 pm

Re: Modern Repower

Post by Josh »

Brett, I'd do option one for the simple reason that a double sized u joint does not travel at the same speed on both sides of the yoke, and as a result, could cause harmonic or vibration issues at high speed.
Image
Brett
SSGT
SSGT
Posts: 308
Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2007 4:20 pm
Location: Murfreesboro, TN

Re: Modern Repower

Post by Brett »

Well, once again I've shown how bad I am at documenting my progress, and posting it here. The truck is mechanicly pretty complete now. I've put quite a few miles on it. including an interstate run of about 30 miles into work one morning back in the summer. My focus lately has been on body work, as my goal is to have it painted this spring. This is about what she looks like right now.
Image

My last post was about my drive shafts. well, the guy I had working on them flaked out on me and decided he couldn't do it. So I decided that I would try to build my own. I had to build my rear shaft twice, but I've gotten ok at it. For my intermediate I ended up switching my t-case input flange for an output flange I got from AB Linn. I then cut down a stock driveshaft and put a 1350 yoke on the other end to mate up to the trans.
Image

My rear shaft needed to be shortened, so I cut the yoke out then cut the tube down, and got it pretty close with a dial indicator before welding it up. I had a pretty bad vibration at 35 mph. So I decided I could get the run out better. cut it loose again, adjusted, and rewelded. This time with about .007" runout. That solved about 70% of the vibrations. Decided to check the factory weld at the spline shaft, .030" out. Oops, thats still on my list to fix that.
Image

When I went to build the front I was a pro and got it right the first time.

For the brake switch I used a micro-switch I scrounged up some where. this worked out well as I needed a normally open circuit for brake lights and a normally closed for torque converter lockcup.
Image

Well, that about all I have time for right now, I will post more later. If you want a sneak peek of the rest of my progress, my pics are in the gallery under Brett Bunnell.
snowdad
SGT
SGT
Posts: 246
Joined: Thu Mar 04, 2010 2:25 pm
Location: Red Boiling Springs, TN

Re: Modern Repower

Post by snowdad »

Brett,
Was starting to wonder what happened to your project. Hadn't seen anything from you in a while. If you need something about those drive shafts , I have a good welding shop near me that does all my work. Let me know if you get in a bind and need something. I am the one that bought the engine, transmission, radiator and fuel tank from you.
Phillip
User avatar
W_A_Watson_II
SFC
SFC
Posts: 627
Joined: Sat Oct 20, 2007 7:02 am
Location: MO
Contact:

Re: Modern Repower

Post by W_A_Watson_II »

Brett,

I assume that's a slip yoke on the tranny? Also is it perfectly aligned or do you have some misalignment to ensure you don't ware out the U-Joints?

Will
Thanks,
Will
1946 Dodge Power Wagon
1953 Dodge M37 - "Frankenstein"
My 1953 Dodge M37 WEB Site
Brett
SSGT
SSGT
Posts: 308
Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2007 4:20 pm
Location: Murfreesboro, TN

Re: Modern Repower

Post by Brett »

Phillip,
I'm glad to see you getting underway with your truck.

Will,
Yes, There's a slipyoke from the trans. Also the alignment is pretty spot on. It makes sense now that you mention it that you would want some misalignment. I presume the idea is that you want the needle bearings in the u joint to keep moving so they don't freeze up. That would be an easy fix for me as I modified the driverside t-case bracket to lower the input. I was concerned that my intermediate shaft was a source of vibration, it wasn't. So I can put a stock bracket back on.

Here are some shots of my lights. The tail lights are from a semi, as is the turn signal switch. the turn signal switch also controls high beams.

Image

Image

Image

The headlights are sylvania silverstars, off the shelf at Oreilys, as are the turn signals. The headlight receptacles from the van plugged right in to the bulbs. They are Bright too, Brighter than my 2009 Chevy dually.
Image

Image

Thats all for now, More later
Brett
User avatar
W_A_Watson_II
SFC
SFC
Posts: 627
Joined: Sat Oct 20, 2007 7:02 am
Location: MO
Contact:

Re: Modern Repower

Post by W_A_Watson_II »

Brett,

Yep the needle bearings need to get some movement to prevent very localized wear and result in a failure.

Nice tail lights, I "use" my truck off road, and started with the same lights in the same location, but fount I tore them off, a lot. I sure liked them in that spot though.

Will
Thanks,
Will
1946 Dodge Power Wagon
1953 Dodge M37 - "Frankenstein"
My 1953 Dodge M37 WEB Site
Josh
SFC
SFC
Posts: 702
Joined: Tue Nov 06, 2007 9:02 pm

Re: Modern Repower

Post by Josh »

Brett,

You can get brass bushed U joints as well. Designed specifically for low movement, high torque driveshafts. Tom woods driveshaft shop carries them. Kinda pricey, but I think they have a lifetime breakage and wearout guarantee, so long as you keep them greased... :wink:
Image
Brett
SSGT
SSGT
Posts: 308
Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2007 4:20 pm
Location: Murfreesboro, TN

Re: Modern Repower

Post by Brett »

I think I'll probably just move my t-case back up where I had it, as with the input side lower its almost impossible to acess the filler plug.

Yeah, the taillights are kinda begging to be hit there. If they end up getting smashed I might try something else, But I scored them on ebay for $10 for the pair with a harness, so I won't cry.

For my exhaust I bought some 2.5" mandrel bends from Jegs, along with a pair of Moroso Spiral flow mufflers. I had wanted to run a crossover pipe, but I can't see anyway of doing this without hanging down below the framerails. I was also wanting to use a set flowmasters that I had lying around, but they were to big to fit. The moroso's are very compact and sound good too.

Image

Image

Image

Image

My transfer case shifters and parking brake levers required a lot of rethinking. there was no way to mount them to the side of the new trans, so I ended up mounting them to the trans cover. Originally I was going to cut the flat bar for the shifters just above the rubber and weld on 1/2" rod with a knob, but I really liked the look of the simple levers.

Image

The parking brake lever had to be moved up a lot to make room for the control rod. I had to shorten the lever by a few inches to clear the dash. It still gives me plenty of power to stop the truck If I have to ( I've tried it out a couple of times to be safe)

Image

Image

Image

I had to extend the control rods because the t-case sits 6" further back. I used 3/4" angle iron and some 7/16" nuts welded to that. It works well and fits well.

Image

Brett
Brett
SSGT
SSGT
Posts: 308
Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2007 4:20 pm
Location: Murfreesboro, TN

Re: Modern Repower

Post by Brett »

The fan is a 16" electric I picked up on ebay for $17. I have it wired to the old ignition switch via a relay in the underhood fuse panel. It does a good job of cooling things off. I was running around in the August heat, and temps stayed right about 190.

Image

Image

Image

Image

I've still need to tidy things up a bit under the hood, but everything is in there and out of harm's way.

Image

One of the first body work tasks was redoing the door check arms. The brackets with wires in the doors were thrashed badly. So I drilled out the welds for them and built my own replacements. They are made of 2"x 1/8" flat bar, some 3/8" nuts cut in half and a piece of electricials fish tape folded in half. the fishtape is allowed a tiny bit of movement to keep every thing happy. these were then welded inplace of the originals.

Image

The check arms are some NOS pieces I picked up a while back.

Image

I also had to repair the tabs on the jams

Image

Image

Brett
Brett
SSGT
SSGT
Posts: 308
Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2007 4:20 pm
Location: Murfreesboro, TN

Re: Modern Repower

Post by Brett »

I've repaired the rust on my rear cab corners. I failed to take pictures in the process, but I cut out the rust and welded in new sheet metal, then skimmed it with body filler.

My windshield frame was badly rusted on the bottom. It had also been swollen from water freezing inside the tubing at some time.

Image

I found Some material that seemed just right for fixing this. it is a stiffener used in framing with metal studs. Its 1 5/8" wide, and fits inside the tube nicely.

Image

I cut out the bad with a grinder, and found a lot of this.

Image

Image

Image

I then fit the new piece in and welded it into place.

Image

Image

I picked up some seam sealer to seal it up. Body work is not a great strength of mine so its not perfect but it will be hard for most to tell. I guess thats pretty well got it up to date. I've got a lot of sanding, cleaning, priming, painting, etc. ahead of me.

Brett
User avatar
W_A_Watson_II
SFC
SFC
Posts: 627
Joined: Sat Oct 20, 2007 7:02 am
Location: MO
Contact:

Re: Modern Repower

Post by W_A_Watson_II »

Here is my tail light evolution:

1st set: http://m37.wawii.com/images/DSC00289_TailGate.JPG
2ns set: http://m37.wawii.com/images/DSC01064_TailGatePaint.JPG
3rd set: http://m37.wawii.com/images/DSC01419_TailLights.JPG
3rd set in use: http://m37.wawii.com/images/DSC06706_M3 ... lFrame.JPG
4th (current) set: http://m37.wawii.com/images/2011-10-08% ... er2011.jpg

I like how you got to the outside of the frame for the exhaust. I tore both of mine off as they crossed under the frame just behind the shackles and were under the running boards. Ended up having to abandon the duals as I kept tearing them off and braking exhaust manifolds (as well as crushing running boards). Exhaust now is single insode the frame and exiting at the rear tire, between the bed and frame.

Looking good,
Will
Thanks,
Will
1946 Dodge Power Wagon
1953 Dodge M37 - "Frankenstein"
My 1953 Dodge M37 WEB Site
Tanner
SGT
SGT
Posts: 219
Joined: Wed Oct 24, 2007 2:48 pm
Location: Raleigh, NC

Re: Modern Repower

Post by Tanner »

Nice work - I know you taken a lot of time & effort in planning it out!

And the tail lights looked very familiar... my '77 Jeep CJ5 had lights that looked identical -

Tanner
Josh
SFC
SFC
Posts: 702
Joined: Tue Nov 06, 2007 9:02 pm

Re: Modern Repower

Post by Josh »

Brett, that looks pretty cool with all the modern goodies on it under the hood. I see you even kept the drive by wire!
Image
snowdad
SGT
SGT
Posts: 246
Joined: Thu Mar 04, 2010 2:25 pm
Location: Red Boiling Springs, TN

Re: Modern Repower

Post by snowdad »

Brett,
How about some more info on the seam sealer? Something I will be interested in. Also, sorry you didn't take pics of the corner repairs. I have one on the driver's side that I will be repairing and like you, body repair is not my best subject. Thanks. And looking good!!!
Phillip
Post Reply