Jim,

That is a great looking stand. Thanks for posting the pics. I notice that you still have the original style short exhaust pipe extension with swivel bolts.

-Chris

Not only is there a gap, but it tends to be much larger on one side then the other.

Elwood, thanks for the comments. What you're saying makes sense.

Elwood, thanks for posting those pics. They really help me understand how the engine will mount on the stand. The “tabs” I was referring to are the two thin pieces sticking out of the side of the lower back of the block. You have one bolt from the stand in each, at the bottom. Those pieces look too ...

The stand is at a mechanic’s shop. It’s a standard stand that mounts at four places, but someone who has put a few M37 engines on stands told me that the four places end up on the two tabs. Each of the two tabs has two holes. Perhaps that’s not the case and other holes can be used? I’m guessing that...

I’m getting ready to pull my engine. The engine mounts to the engine stand using two tabs at the rear of the engine, one on either side of the engine. Each tab has two holes. A friend has pointed out that these tabs are thin and they can break, causing the engine to fall from the stand and wrecking ...

Thanks for all of the replies!

I need to pull to engine out of my M37 and deliver it for rebuilding. I'm new to this hobby and I've never pulled an engine from anything before. Forgive me if these are stupid questions, but I figure that asking stupid questions now is better then getting into serious trouble later. :oops: A friend...

I finally got the compression check done and it came back with around 90 in each of the cylinders except #4, which was in the mid 60's. So I guess that explains that. Time for a rebuild.

Thanks again for all of the replies.

I have not been able to work on it yet, so the problem isn't fixed and I have yet to try any of the possible solutions. Sorry for the delay.

-Chris

Thanks for the replies! My fuel filter and plug wares are new, so I'll start with the compression test and the timing. I did the timing about a year ago, but perhaps it wasn't done right.

Lately my truck has started “bucking.” It happens after the engine is good and warm. I’ll be cruising along between 40 and 45 mph and hit a hill or rise in the road. Everything is fine if I’m lightly applying the gas pedal to maintain speed on the level, but when I press it farther to maintain speed...

Here it is, go to p14-17

http://dig.library.vcu.edu/cdm/ref/coll ... m/id/13424

It shows were the above items were stowed. Again, the B1 may have been different.

Issue 68 of Preventative Maintenance Monthly from 1958 shows that the tool bag had; Pliers slip joint; stgth nose, comb, w/ cutter, 8 in lg. Screwdriver, flat tip; mtl w/ wood inserts hdl, flared tip, 3/8 in w, 6 in lg blade Screwdriver, cross tip; Philips No. 3 tip, wood hdl, 6 in lg blade Wrench, ...

If you sandblast a rim with the tire still on it be sure to plug up the gap in the ring. I failed to do this on one of my wheels and the media got into the tire and caused a flat the next time I drove the truck. ...yeah, only I could be dumb enough to do such a thing, but I thought I'd post this jus...