Thanks!

I will give you a call this weekend.

Mark

Please take no offense. But I laughed all the way through your post. That sums up working on these trucks to a "T". Some of us are gluttons for punishment (raises hand). I have just been accepted as a member of the "Dirty Docents" at the mechanized museum at our local Marine Corp...

"I just turned on my grinder and went back to work. " Gold!!!

The one in the manual, that you posted is the earliest of these "modern" military light switches. You could get them apart. The one you pictured below is a later version of the switch. Those,I have never had luck getting apart

Well, get the lock working first. The switch itself is not user friendly to take apart. C, J and G should be no lights anywhere Use the unlock and go to D. Here the brake lights work, the turn signals if correctly done work in this position. This is your standard daytime public road driving switch p...

Maybe someone has a spare hood floating around?

Im in San Diego, but work in Glendale so I get around Socal a lot.

Thanks,

Mark

Try to find NOS. I just went through this with repo ones from the usual places. They don't fit, need lots of massage to get them in and clear the headlight door screws.

That really isn't necessary. With the throttle held wide open, cranking speed produces no vacuum and so does not put fuel through the carb. Choke closed is a different matter, don't do that

Hello new guy to forum here. But did my first M43 build in '68. The revving up before dying is a mixture going way lean as in running out of gas. Have you done this one little thing: Disconnect the fuel line from the carb. Remove the seat fitting from the carb. Look in there real close from the fuel...