In rehabbing a "new" shift lever, I had to remove the knob as it was pretty well trashed. Try as I might with penetrating oil, it just would not unscrew. Not being the patient type, I proceeded to cut it off. I was somewhat surprized to see the wood core, it reminded me of a Tootsie Pop, s...

w30bob wrote:Thanks JB.... It sure does suck getting old.

regards,
bob

Maybe, but it sure beats the alternative!!!

Maybe it's just a CT truck thing and the NY trucks are different!!!

I'm looking for some opinions here regarding using first gear. I'm confining the discussion to on-road use only, not towing anything and in rear wheel drive (as opposed to 4 wheel drive). I have felt that 1st was too low for starts on flat or downhill roads and only use it when starting from a dead ...

Well now, I may be joining the stupid club, but my memory is telling me that the safety latch on my M has to be pushed back toward the rear of the vehicle to allow the hood to open.

No longer needed. Found a replacement and will have the old one welded for a spare.

In general, home heating oil is the same as truck diesel without the highway taxes. I prefer running truck diesel in the generator I have at work, it's what the manufacturer recommends.

If the radiator shop doesn't have it, try John at Midwest. Worst case, some gasket material and make your own.

With a diesel, the only way you can spin the engine without it starting is to shut off the fuel. You might be able to spin it some if you don't energize the glow plugs but if enough heat builds up, it might start.

Cool pics! As for driving in the rain, I've gotten caught several times this year, the worst was a thunderstorm with torrential rains and water running 1-2" deep on the road. Having heard the horror sorties about NDTs on wet pavement, I took it easy. Actually, I couldn't see more than 100' ahea...

Yeh, I've been bulking up for winter!

Haven't talked with anyone yet who's heard of this part breaking including John Bizal. As I said before, I must just be lucky.

That's the bottom of the shift lever that sits atop the tranny. The cast portion where the shift hadle comes out. You can see that it had been compromised for quite some time as there is rust at both the top and bottom.

I guess you could call it the handle, it's the part that attaches to the top of the rod that comes up out of the tranny. The broken part has the shift knob on the opposite end. I'll see if I can post a pic later, but it snapped off right where the rod meets the cast part. http://www.pbase.com/baywin...

Anyone have a shift lever for a B1 (the long one) that they'd like to sell?