I've briefly been to 50 in mine with everything stock except the tires (STA Superlugs) and that was all I could stand. I normally cruise at between 35 and 40 and then I use earplugs. I just don't see a reason to push the engine any harder than that. I will ride around my neighborhood at 30 if there ...

Hams will tell you that the FCC is not very vigilant with their enforcement of the regulations. There is a lot of crap on the ham bands that is caused by......idiot hams who are just jerks. The Amateur Radio bands are what the government calls "self policing", where we do our best to keep ...

Remember that only a few military radios transmit in legal Amateur Radio frequencies and you need a license. Easy to get but necessary. The RT-68 happens to be usable in the 6 meter band. These are wide band radios, not the narrow modern type that are available commercially today.

So, 12 ohms is bad or going bad. I'm currently running a Chinese coil and feel like it is a ticking time bomb. We sure could use some reliable new coils for the hobby.

I found an original Autolite coil for my truck. The + and - terminals measure 12 ohms. I have seen somewhere that it should be around 1 ohms. Do I have a bad coil? The center to positive is 14K ohms.

It would be interesting to see some photos of the supports for the seat. I also have a RT68 with the PS and mount which I want to put in the back of the truck. It has to be fairly easy to remove though so I can swap out my comm box into the bed.

Actually, it was the one on the engine when I bought it. I remember when we originally installed the re-lined clutch and had to add spacers that we thought the friction material was thicker than stock. It's possible that the pressure plate was adjusted wrong to begin with and we never thought about ...

The adjusting nuts are accessible without pulling the transmission and are 9/16". We figured out the height of the fingers from the flywheel with the disc in place (each truck will vary some) and used a dowel to measure the height. Then the nuts were staked as per the manual.

The clutch is working again, after we adjusted three "fingers" to the prescribed distance above the flywheel (1.93"). We made a short stick to use as a ruler inside the pressure plate assembly and managed to avoid the whole removal of the powerpack. So after two joy rides in the truck...

Here are photos I took while restoring my throttle linkage, for ya'll reference.

http://apollosaturn.smugmug.com/M37/Carb-Linkage

Last year when I rebuilt my carb, I took a bunch of photos. I have finally uploaded them to my Smugmug account. I know I missed a few steps in there and when I do another carb I will fix that. Remember that I have quite a large amount of photos of M37 stuff as well as other MV's from our club events...

Here you go:

Your photo is from under the pedals and appears to show the brake cylinder push rod leading out of the image to the right. Taken from outside the frame. My photo is inside the frame looking at the opposite end of the pedal shaft with the bellhousing just out of sight to the right. So I think we are ...

I'm beginning to think that there is some thing fundamentally wrong with the pressure plate. Though I won't be able to do any work on it till the weekend. I have a spare which I am going to look at. A longer pushrod may only bandaid the real issue.

Very late in the war if at all.