I usually don't have that third foot to hold the accelerator to the floor to clear a flooded situation while on the trail as I need the hold the brake and clutch. left foot spread across clutch and brake, right heel holding the pedal to the floor, right toe taps the starter. The old "make my t...

Walmart 1gallon pesticide sprayer, works perfectly. The hose it comes with is long enough to reach the master cylinder vent from the ground or the running board. You'll also need a brass 1/8" NPT by 1/4 or 3/16 barb, another buck or two if you don't have one already.

that's a pressurized fitting, it should have been leaking fluid during bleeding if that's the issue. sounds like it needed replaced regardless.

Someone could write a book just based on your posts here and it would be a bestseller. Always enjoy reading them!

325/85R16 Michelin XML fit just perfect and look great on these trucks. they're getting hard to find too, but not impossible

by far the easiest way to get everything back together, is to assemble the drum onto the shaft, slide on a spacer, install both keys into the shaft, and then install the shift fork, spacer, and clutch into the other housing and keep the clutch housing flat on the bench. have a buddy help lift the dr...

looked briefly but can't find it for sure...does anyone have the clearance specs for the front tracta joints? the only places i've found online mention .007" clearance, and mine appear to be more like .020" clearance between the ball halves. I'm still gonna send it...into my truck, that is...

I had 5 gallons in a metal can given to me by the distributor because it had "'passed it's expiration date" and was going to get tossed. i think mine is shell brand and i went with 460 instead of 600 because of the colder climate here

red locktite doesn't soften until 500F, your engine should never see those kinds of temps anywhere you would have a fastener except for maybe the exhaust manifold. i don't know how oil affects loctite though, but i would imagine it has little to no affect.

glad that worked out for you!

a 3/8 grade 8 bolt SHOULD be enough to pull that off of there....i'd still use at least a bit of heat, it makes a big difference. you can also tap on the back of the bolt after it's tightened up to help things move, but be careful and don't hit it real hard, as you could dent the roller bearings int...

i don't remember ever seeing a set screw in mine...is there a chance there's a set screw down in one of those holes that's gotten itself cut into a groove? looks like you are on the right track with the puller...if i were you though i'd use a 1/2" fine thread bolt and nut, both grade 8, and the...

sounds like you sheared the pin, it's not supposed to be roll pin it's supposed to be a sheer pin, held in place with a cotter pin. sounds like you'll have to pry the yoke off and get the roll pin out.

i do need to cap that off better, since right now it just runs to the vacuum pump and there's nothing connected. i have it capped/plugged at the inlet to the vacuum pump but there's a chance it's not a perfect seal

Rebuilt the carb and had it running last night, it sounds like it's missing slightly on a couple cylinders and the thermal camera shows that 5 and 6 aren't pulling their weight. I need to do a compression test, as it could be a head gasket leaking between those two cylinders. Is there any other comm...