wrote:
> Thanks Cuz. That was the answer I was looking for. The ammeter was not working before I changed to the transistorized voltage regulator a few weeks ago. I am glad to hear that the gauge I bought will be the one I need.

wrote:
>
I bought powder coated rock sliders for my SUV about eight years ago. They are developing a rust problem where huge flakes are rusting off. I blame the magnesium cloride they use on our roads in Colorado. I expected a tougher finish.

wrote:
> I just ordered the colored gauge yesterday. If it is a volt meter and my charge/discharge gauge is an ammeter I might have ordered the wrong thing. I might keep it and try to order an ammeter. Both would be nice, and a voltmeter would be easy to wire in.

wrote:
>
Bob, are the gauges I described amp gauges or volt gauges. I read somewhere that generator equipped trucks have amp gauges and alternator trucks have voltmeters. Is this true?

wrote: > Thanks for the info Charles. I am close to eliminating my final electrical gremlin. I just removed the 12v tap that ran the 12v fuel pump and installed a new 24v pump tonight. I also deleted the 12v running lights the previous fire dept had installed. These taps had messed with my batteries...

wrote:
> Thanks lifer. I'll start shopping for the original style. Will the other one (colored bars) work with the same connectors if I cannot find the original style?

wrote: > I have had my 1952 M37 for a little over a year now, and I have replaced several gauges and sending units. The only non-functioning gauge is my generator gauge. The one in the truck has a center line and a "DIS" on the left and "CHG" on the right. The needle stays right ...

That would be a good way to run 12v equipment on a 24v system without the problems of a center tap. It is kind of pricey though. The only 12v item left on my truck is a siren from its fire dept days which is kind of neat. It does not get enough run time to affect the batteries

Thanks vargaspj. I just ordered the Facet pump this morning. Replacing the 12v pump with a 24v electric one is easier for me than re-plumbing in the mechanical one.

Snowdad, thanks for the great link. That was exactly what I was looking for. I was wondering how to use the oil pressure sending unit, when an added pressure switch needed to be added. I am not sure if I will go electric, or put on a new mechanical unit, like Mikkelborg did. I like the simplicity of...

I purchased my M37 about a year ago, and put two new matching batteries in it. It ran great for that year after some work, but now I have charging issues. I get 28.5 volts when the truck is running and about 25v when it is off, shortly after running, but it is not holding a charge. The problem is th...

Thanks Cuz. I'll check out what that involves online. Each time I drained my system down and let the coolant sit in the bucket for a week or two, there was about an eight inch of sludge left in the bottom of the bucket. I am sure there is more inside the engine. Are flushing chemicals too harsh for ...

I had another idea, which is probably not wise. You guys tell me what you think. If I took out the thermastat and disconnected the hose feeding the radiator, is there any reason why I could not run a hose into the radiator and let the dirty water run into a catch tub? If I started with a cold engine...

Here is my take. When I read in the manual that the timing should be 2 after tdc, I disagreed, and I am not very versed in engine tuning. I mostly fiddle with my two stroke dirt bikes and snowmobiles. Ignition after tdc makes no sense. I set my timing at 5 degrees before tdc, but I run my truck from...

I have had my M37 for a little over a year, and have had to drain down the coolant twice. Each time, the coolant sat in a 5 gallon bucket for a while before being filtered and poured back into the radiator. Each time there was a rust colored sludge left in the bottom of the bucket. I am interested i...