Thanks John, Another reason I built the test bed was that the project was a 60s vintage resto drag car. Since the car weighed in at 3850# I had to build a torque monster. Which turned out as expected but I needed the money and sold it. The MPG were about par with the M37. It went to Sweden of all pl...

Now that the M37 is road worthy I've been doing some short drives to test road worthiness. I have rebuilt the Carb, drained the gas tank and changed out the electric fuel pump to something with less PSI. New points , cond, rotor , cap and the plugs got re-gapped and cleaned. Timing set to 4* BTDC a...

Hi Wayne, Neil did that. I think a 5 gallon pail played into the radius. I was working on another piece when he did that so I am not sure how he did it. He brought a brake with him but I was suprised how smooth the radiused bend was. I hadnt really noticed how nice it had come out until today when ...

About a test run When I did up a Ford FE big block a while ago I wanted to run it in before the install. I used 4x6s and put the whole deal on wheels. I wanted the tranny and the over drive unit on for testing so this is what I came up with. As it turned out it saved this crippled some work as the r...

Thanks for posting the link to the repairs. Who rolled and edged the rear cab repair patch? I have the same issue on the drivers side.

Nice find, A great use would be to turn it into a big portable smoker. As far as pioneer tools goes, about 5 years ago I bought 5 pioneer tool boxes from Gov. auction. One was dated back to 1943 and I sold off most of the tools and ended up with some free tools I could use. The best tool in the boxe...

Correct me if I'm wrong guys. When the truck was new it got Dot 3 type fluid. For those applications I use Dot 4 which is also OK for disc brakes. The Dot 5 Silicone came into use in the 80s if I recall. The Dot 5 advantage was that it wasn't hydroscopic (sp) and didn't absorb moisture like regular ...

Thanks Gents, I ordered a roll of 7/32 vacuum line and will check to see if the steel lines are clear and replace the rubber hoses. At which point see if the wipers work.

Cal_Gary wrote:Mine was as stubborn as yours, Wayne. I had to use a pipe wrench, which of course trashed the edges of the plug, but it came loose and I replaced the plug with a standard plug from VPW.
Gary

Thanks Gary, I'll look to buying another before I try to remove again.

Today we had a break in the weather and I drove over for my inspection. The wipers do not work and before driving over I ran a test. The truck is taking vacuum off the manifold since I'm using an electric fuel pump. I'm getting 18" at the manifold and upon disconnecting the first rubber line t...

Today we had a break in the weather and I drove over for my inspection. The wipers do not work and before driving over I ran a test. The truck is taking vacuum off the manifold since I'm using an electric fuel pump. I'm getting 18" at the manifold and upon disconnecting the first rubber line t...

I posted a while back about what type of wrench removes the drain plug. 1/2" square drive is what I was told and that made sense as other plugs on the M37 also use that size. My drain plug has eight notches which looked like the plug was stamped when made. I can't get the plug loose?? I tried ...

Old school safety came with the use of studded snows. I remember one winter in 71 driving 65mph on black ice to get to my duck blind before first light. The road was empty and the car was a 70 Duster 318 3 on the floor. I also seem to remember folks knew how to drive back then in any weather.

Thanks Ed for the reply. The head light area repair is easy for me but the edges would take much work to make right. Long distance driving is tough on this old cripple but I'll keep it in mind.